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Routes in Buckeye Buttress

Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rug Muncher S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Keith Moll, 1994
Page Views: 1,148 total · 9/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on May 16, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

I believe there are two ways to start. Below or on top of the large block. Either way I would stick clip the first bolt. Ascend the steep face on very positive holds. Use a combination of sidepulls and jugs to the fourth bolt. Pass a small bulge using smaller crimps and hit a large horn to the left to set the clips. If you don't see the horn than gun for a large jug on the right, just above the chains.

Location

This route is at the Bucheye Buttress. When you reach the Y in the Motherlode trail make the left. You will begin to see the cliff on your left hand side, make another left on the trail and this will put you at the Ball Scratcher arete. Follow the trail left through the large cave. The route will be on the far left side of the cave.

Protection

4 bolts and fixed chains at the top. There were also some biners up there when I did the route.

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