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Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup)
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 6
votes
Routes in The King Wall
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Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chronic Fixation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Royal Pain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,287 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Sep 30, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
This great linkup combines Wall Ruler and The King and I.
P1 (5.10d G): Go up the black face to a ledge, then make a difficult pull (crux) to gain a left-facing flake. Follow the flake to its top, then continue up and left and make a final difficult move to a hanging belay. This sport pitch is well-protected, but there is a possibility of ledge fall making the crux move. 80'
P2 (5.10a G, 5.4 X): Go straight up to a bolt, then make an awkward, scrunched traverse right to a large left-facing corner in the roof. Another awkward move gains jugs on the right wall. Go up and right to the arete and follow jugs over the roof (5.4 X), then go up and left to a fixed anchor. Gear to #2 Camalot. 50'
P3 (5.5 R): Go up and left from the anchor following the line of weakness, then up a chocolate-colored slab to a right-facing corner-roof. Up this to a sidewalk-ledge that slopes down and right. Go down this to its end, move down a 4'-high step (yellow Alien), then continue down and right to a fixed anchor. 100'
P4 (5.9+ G): Straight above the anchor is a line of black bolts (the line of bolts to the left is The Keep, 5.11b). Go up a black wall on amazing, hidden holds to a headwall. Over this, then up continue straight up two more bulges to a fixed anchor on a tree. The pitch is mostly bolted, but has a couple cam placements to #1 Camalot. 140'
P1 (5.10d G): Go up the black face to a ledge, then make a difficult pull (crux) to gain a left-facing flake. Follow the flake to its top, then continue up and left and make a final difficult move to a hanging belay. This sport pitch is well-protected, but there is a possibility of ledge fall making the crux move. 80'
P2 (5.10a G, 5.4 X): Go straight up to a bolt, then make an awkward, scrunched traverse right to a large left-facing corner in the roof. Another awkward move gains jugs on the right wall. Go up and right to the arete and follow jugs over the roof (5.4 X), then go up and left to a fixed anchor. Gear to #2 Camalot. 50'
P3 (5.5 R): Go up and left from the anchor following the line of weakness, then up a chocolate-colored slab to a right-facing corner-roof. Up this to a sidewalk-ledge that slopes down and right. Go down this to its end, move down a 4'-high step (yellow Alien), then continue down and right to a fixed anchor. 100'
P4 (5.9+ G): Straight above the anchor is a line of black bolts (the line of bolts to the left is The Keep, 5.11b). Go up a black wall on amazing, hidden holds to a headwall. Over this, then up continue straight up two more bulges to a fixed anchor on a tree. The pitch is mostly bolted, but has a couple cam placements to #1 Camalot. 140'
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