Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The King Wall

Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic Fixation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 370 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 211 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 30, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This great linkup combines Wall Ruler and The King and I.

P1 (5.10d G): Go up the black face to a ledge, then make a difficult pull (crux) to gain a left-facing flake. Follow the flake to its top, then continue up and left and make a final difficult move to a hanging belay. This sport pitch is well-protected, but there is a possibility of ledge fall making the crux move. 80'

P2 (5.10a G, 5.4 X): Go straight up to a bolt, then make an awkward, scrunched traverse right to a large left-facing corner in the roof. Another awkward move gains jugs on the right wall. Go up and right to the arete and follow jugs over the roof (5.4 X), then go up and left to a fixed anchor. Gear to #2 Camalot. 50'

P3 (5.5 R): Go up and left from the anchor following the line of weakness, then up a chocolate-colored slab to a right-facing corner-roof. Up this to a sidewalk-ledge that slopes down and right. Go down this to its end, move down a 4'-high step (yellow Alien), then continue down and right to a fixed anchor. 100'

P4 (5.9+ G): Straight above the anchor is a line of black bolts (the line of bolts to the left is The Keep, 5.11b). Go up a black wall on amazing, hidden holds to a headwall. Over this, then up continue straight up two more bulges to a fixed anchor on a tree. The pitch is mostly bolted, but has a couple cam placements to #1 Camalot. 140'

Location

From the Kingdom Come area, walk up and left through large boulders to a ledge approached from the left. Above the ledge are two bolted lines: the left one is Medieval Times, and the right one is Wall Ruler.

Protection

P1: Quickdraws.
P2: Mostly small, plus a #1 and #2 Camalot.
P3: A couple small finger-sized cams, plus a #0.75 Camalot.
P4: A couple cams to #1 Camalot.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
3 to 4 stars for The King and I, 1 to 2 stars for Wall Ruler. Sep 17, 2016

More About Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup)

Printer-Friendly