Avg: 2.6 from 17 votes
Routes in The King Wall
|Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Chronic Fixation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0|
|Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||1989 Purcell, Mellor|
|Page Views:||1,612 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||Kevin Heckeler on Jul 7, 2012|
DescriptionP1 5.5G (50') - Up to ledge (or traverse from left on ledge), then up to a left facing corner. Climb the corner then traverse right to a bolted belay.
P2 5.7G (60') - Climb straight up, through overlap (crux), up to small roof (for gear), then step back down to make a couple moves left (more gear), then up and right on a ledge with a good belay at a left facing open book.
P3 5.7G (90') - (V1) Climb left side of flake, follow fingercrack up and left, along a ramp, up a shallow corner (sometimes wet) to a jutting rock. Behind this (crux), up and left through the roof. Travese left to belay/rap.
You will not reach the ground with a single rope rappel. Expect to use the rappel station about 50 feet below and right of the top rap station.
V1 5.9+R - Straight up black face (bolt). Use the handcrack in the roof to right leaning crack that cuts back left to a ledge and belay (80 feet). Up 5.7 slab (100 feet) to the top. The walkoff right is poor, so this doesn't get climbed much.