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Routes in The King Wall

Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic Fixation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 110 ft
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bob Martin
Page Views: 80 total, 2/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Sep 28, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Start on the ledge and climb up the left-facing corner(as for Prince.) At the top of the corner, move left onto the face/slab and a line of bolts. Climb up to the left end of an overlap, and move left onto a steep bulgy slab. The crux is around this part: high-step moves on desperately small crimps. After the crux move up and left and onto an outside corner/arete thing with a bolt. Move up it and right(possible trad gear around this section) and onto better holds on another face. Continue up past an overlap to a fixed anchor.


Same as for Prince. Left end of the wall atop a ledge below a complicated left-facing corner. You can do it on TR when rappeling from Prince. To lower off and rappel you need a 70m rope.


7 bolts. There may be some small trad gear in the middle and upper section of the route. Fixed anchor on top: 2 bolts with some fixed tat to rap from.


With a 70m rope and some rope stretch, it's possible to rappel and also to lower off of the fixed tat atop this climb. Watch your ends. Otherwise you need two ropes to get off.


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