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Routes in The King Wall

Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic Fixation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Patrick Purcell, 1979
Page Views: 150 total · 1/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

At the left end of the cliff is a fat, right-facing flake. This is the first pitch of Elusive Dream. This is the only free pitch on this route, and to my knowledge, no one has freed the upper two pitches of aid looming above.

Climb the fun layback/jamming flake to the crux exit moves. Once above the crux, a thoughtful "stand-up" move is encountered...don't pull on the rivets! Choose a nest of tat to clip in to. (Note: There are two anchors at the top, but the one on the right seems to be the more sound of the two.)

Location

300 feet to the left of Chronic Fixation atop a large cave-like feature.

Protection

#1-#3 Camalot and a blue, green, yellow, and red Alien will suffice, plus about 4 QDs.

Photos

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