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Routes in The King Wall

Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic Fixation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Patrick Purcell, Patrick Munn 9/92
Page Views: 1,765 total, 14/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Chronic Fixation is one of the few "warm-ups" for the harder routes of this cliff. It tackles the short, but stout face 150 feet to the left of Kingdom Come.

Off the deck, engaging moves lure the climber to either side of the first two bolts, then the route sends the climber groping for positive patina along the sloping rails riddling the face. The final crux comes right below the anchor with a painful series of crimps and gastons. The route doesn't let up until you've clipped the anchors.

Location

At the apex of the hiking trail to the cliff is a large, black detached block leaning against the cliff with a dirty crack running up the middle of it. Chronic Fixation is the line of bolts to the left of this block.

Protection

five bolts.

Photos

Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Fun pumpy sport climb, and one of the few warm ups on the wall. If you can get up this you can get up pitch 1 of Kingdom Come. Also do Wall Ruler. Jun 12, 2015
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
great movement on this. Open hand holds on rails along with positive crimps on the steep wall makes for some sustained pumpy fun. Oct 26, 2014
Mitch Hoffman
Fonda NY
Mitch Hoffman   Fonda NY
An awesome climb, but beware of the heat! This wall is east/southeast facing and black, making it an oven in the summer time. Jul 19, 2010
Rafiki  
One of my favorite sport climbs on the most impressive face in Keene Valley. Surprisingly..most of the holds on this route are pretty big, but it saves the best moves for last. Jun 10, 2007