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Routes in The King Wall

Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic Fixation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jim Lawyer, Don Mellor August 2008
Page Views: 256 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jon Clark on Sep 16, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

A great pitch on good rock that starts from a ledge halfway up The King Wall. It is well worth climbing the scrappy Wall Ruler to access this route. While you're up there climbing The King and I is also recommended.

Step left from the anchor and continue (left) for another 15 feet or so. Climb up to a small right facing flake then back right to the first bolt. Climb the pocketed, dimpled face past two more bolts to a sloping ledge. Crank up into the open book to a delicate stance. Very thin face climbing past two bolts leads to a good hold and eventually another ledge. Work into the scoop, mantel onto the lower angle slab and then climb to the trees.

One double 60m rappel to the shared anchor with The King and I. One more double 60m rappel to the ground.

Location

Left of The King and I. First climb Wall Ruler then the first pitch of The King and I.

Protection

8 bolts, a couple of finger sized cams to 1.25", RPs (optional)

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