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Routes in The King Wall

Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic Fixation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA:Pat Purcell FFA:Matt McCormick
Page Views: 381 total · 4/month
Shared By: Matt McCormick on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This amazing route lies in the massive left arching corner on the left end of the King Wall. Pat Purcell aided the route to the existing anchor all the while intending for it to be a full length route. The potential to extend this free climb out the rest of the arch is definitely there!

Scramble around left and back right across a scrappy ledge to reach the base of the left facing and overhanging corner. The start of the route is marked by a 2-bolt anchor which Purcell must have placed.

Stem up the initial corner into increasingly steep and pumpy climbing to reach the anchor. This route is truly unique for the Daks and should be destined to become a free classic at the crag!

Location

Starts by scrambling up the slabby boulder and then back right across the ledge to the base of the massive left arching corner. 60' right of Wall Ruler.

Protection

small to medium nuts and cams. The route is totally G rated!

Photos

jason conway  
 
Super Route. If Kingdom Come is 4 stars this should get 10! I only did the first pitch of KC though. Jul 6, 2010