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Routes in The Shield

Amazing Gravy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ambulance Blues S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Crawl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deep Prok S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Elastic Happiness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fly on a Windshield T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
French Route T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
God's Elastic Acre T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gravitron T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Green Death TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Radio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Intensive Care T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
La Dolce Vita TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Matrimonio Feliz T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Mexican Radio T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nerdwand T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Prok T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pummel Jenga T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Real Gravy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Runamuck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sixth Happiness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stranger Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Stranger Than Friction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Texas Radio T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Duane Raleigh, Bill Thomas
Page Views: 172 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dr Williams on Aug 4, 2015
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


Start on Ambulance Blues. After the first bolt, move to the right instead of moving up and traverse over to La Dolce Vita. Move up and follow bolts for La Dolce Vita and finish on anchors for La Dolce Vita. PLEASE SEE THE COMMENT BELOW FOR A MORE DETAILED DESCRIPTION


Start at Ambulance Blues at place where overlap meets the ground below Ripple


4 bolts and 2 anchors


- No Photos -
  5.10b R
mattm   TX
  5.10b R
The Above Beta is NOT CORRECT. Beta from the O'Grady Book or DDM for the Backside needs to be taken with a grain of salt as neither is up to date or often all that accurate. The Photo Topo's of the backside pasted in MtnProj (colored lines) are the best right now.

Intensive Care has seen a retro since the books were published.

Locate the 1st Bolt for Ambulance Blues about 25' above where the overlap comes closest to the ground. It's above a natural "dish" as the DDM states. Pull over the overlap near the "point" and continue up to the 1st bolt. Continue up and slightly right to bolt #2. Locate bolt #3 further up and right. Proceed right and then up on slightly easier but more runout climbing to bolt #3. After #3, continue more or less straight up through #4-6. After bolt #6, continue to the anchor on easier, but runout and sometimes lichen covered rock to the anchors above (2 Fixe Double Ring Bolts). ~45m

You can traverse down and left to the next anchors above Carpet Crawl. From there, a 40m rap angling climbers left towards the start of Carpet Crawl will BARELY make it. Or continue traversing over to the Ripple or TJ Swan anchors and rap from there. Be courteous of those below you here as it's a popular spot.

While the runout to the first bolt is not something you'd want to fall from, I don't feel like IC deserves it's old X rating, especially with the retro. It's a quality route and good entry into the 10R game. Enjoy! Feb 28, 2016
Dr Williams
Dr Williams   AUSTIN, TX
Again, sorry for the misinformation. I have climbed most of the routes on the The Shield and I did so without finding anything but minor discrepancies with the book. I had not climbed a few of the routes between Ripple and Green Death that I posted. I definitely will try to be more careful in the future. I will try to get out there soon so I can verify the beta that Mattm has provided for those routes and if accurate, I will update the route info on the website. Mar 6, 2016

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