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Routes in The Shield

Amazing Gravy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ambulance Blues S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Crawl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deep Prok S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Elastic Happiness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fly on a Windshield T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
French Route T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
God's Elastic Acre T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gravitron T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Green Death TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Radio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Intensive Care T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
La Dolce Vita TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Matrimonio Feliz T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Mexican Radio T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nerdwand T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Prok T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pummel Jenga T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Real Gravy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Runamuck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sixth Happiness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stranger Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Stranger Than Friction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Texas Radio T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 325 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dr Williams on Aug 4, 2015
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Start is to the left of Elastic Happiness and to the left of the big oak tree. First bolt is just over the initial overlap. It shares start with Amazing Gravy and Mexican Radio. Hard route with several bold run-outs. At the 2nd bolt, veer off to the right and follow the next three bolts and head up to finish on two top anchors. The route has several hard mantle moves. After reaching these anchors, you can rap down or you can do a second pitch of 5.7 climbing that moves up and to the left to two rap rings. Texas Radio shares anchors with several other routes on the Shield. There are no bolts between the top of the first pitch and these rap rings.

Location

The first route to the left of the big oak tree.

Protection

5 bolts and 2 anchors

Photos

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Dr Williams
AUSTIN, TX
  5.11c
Dr Williams   AUSTIN, TX
  5.11c
I understand 5.7 climbing is not bad but if you make a mistake or hit some wet lichen before you get to the anchor, you could fall 70 feet and easily hit the tree and or large flake for 6th Happiness down below. The likeliness of this happening is low but it definitely does happen. By the way, I am embarrassed to say so but it did happen to me on a damp morning the day after a rain. I am lucky to not have been hurt seriously but I fell 70 feet and hit the flake. So, I believe R is justified for all routes with a 35 foot runout regardless of how easy it is. I just want everyone to know what they are getting into before doing it. Nov 26, 2017

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