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Routes in The Shield

Amazing Gravy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ambulance Blues S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Crawl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deep Prok S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Elastic Happiness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fly on a Windshield T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
French Route T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
God's Elastic Acre T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gravitron T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Green Death TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Radio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Intensive Care T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
La Dolce Vita TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Matrimonio Feliz T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Mexican Radio T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nerdwand T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Prok T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pummel Jenga T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Real Gravy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Runamuck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sixth Happiness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stranger Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Stranger Than Friction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Texas Radio T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: Bill Gooch, John Sanders
Page Views: 168 total, 6/month
Shared By: Dr Williams on Aug 4, 2015
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Just to the right of where the overlap reaches the ground, clip the first bolt and then move up and to the left. At the third bolt, move up and to the left and join Ripple and finish on anchors for Ripple. SEE COMMENT BELOW FOR MORE DETAILED INSTRUCTION.

Location

Below and to the right of Ripple. Begins just to the right of where the overlap reaches the ground.

Protection

8 bolts and 2 anchors

Photos

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mattm
TX
 
mattm   TX
 
Locate the 1st Bolt for Ambulance Blues about 25' above where the overlap comes closest to the ground. It's above a natural "dish" as the DDM states.

Pull over the overlap near the "point" and continue up to the 1st bolt. Continue up and left past two more bolts at decent stances. Be mindful of rope slack as the ground slopes up with you and a poor belay could put you in ground fall territory. From the 3rd bolt, continue up and left to the 2nd bolt on Ripple. Finish for Ripple. ~45m

It's a good idea to locate the Ripple bolts prior to setting off on this one. (Climb as a good warm up). The Carpet Crawl bolts cross AB and can be slightly misleading for the first timer.
While the 1st bolt looks quite high, the crux moves occur lower down, pulling over and establishing yourself on the overlap. Feb 28, 2016