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Routes in The Shield

Amazing Gravy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ambulance Blues S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Crawl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deep Prok S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Elastic Happiness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fly on a Windshield T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
French Route T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
God's Elastic Acre T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gravitron T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Green Death TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Radio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Intensive Care T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
La Dolce Vita TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Matrimonio Feliz T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Mexican Radio T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nerdwand T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Prok T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pummel Jenga T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Real Gravy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Runamuck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sixth Happiness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stranger Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Stranger Than Friction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Texas Radio T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,191 total · 11/month
Shared By: ben bryan on Oct 28, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This route is located just to the right of French Route. The route can be identified by the bolt located 10 feet above the overlap.

Protection

A number 1 Camelot fits nicely into the overlap to prevent a ground fall. The only bolt is the one mentioned earlier. The route finishes at a two bolt anchor

Photos

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boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
 
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
 
I haven't been here in years but my recollection is not that it is 40'. Are there new bolts not at the top of the dome? Apr 12, 2013
There is a horizontal flare down low, and nice nuggets up to the 1st bolt. Super thin smears to the overlap and double-bolts (50 feet total).

Good top rope spot for French Route (the 2 routes meet here). Bail after that or commit to 60+ runout of 5.7 with just 1 good piece of pro (there is more pro right at the top). May 6, 2013
Superclimber
  5.10a
Superclimber  
  5.10a
This route can be taken all the way to the top, but it's a little runout.

Find one sketchy placement before the first bolt, continue up 5.8ish face moves with ground fall potential to clip the bolt. Next trend up and left to the obvious ledge with the double bolted anchor. To continue to the top-clip one of the anchor bolts and run it out up and slightly left to the downward facing flake that protects with small gear. Use a long runner and again run it out this time trending slightly right to the overlap near the top. Follow the protectable low angle finger crack a short ways to the double bolted anchors.

A 60 Meter rope WILL NOT make it to the ground. I don't think a 70 will make it either. An easy option for descent is to have your second follow you all the way to the top in one pitch, then rap down at the News Wall anchors hidden in the alcove. Feb 8, 2014
Superclimber
  5.10a
Superclimber  
  5.10a
In answer to boulderkeith. A second bolt was added to the existing bolt on the ledge shared with French Route creating a double bolted anchor that is in fact about 40 feet up. However, to get the full value of the climb I posted a descripion above that goes all the way to the top. It is kinda run out and I estimate it's about 150' if one follows the beta I posted above. Feb 9, 2014
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
You won't have any issues with the runout above if you were solid up to the first anchor. Easy, but somewhat interesting runout moves above. You can find a rap station about 15' right of the downward facing flake (place gear with a double length and traverse or go straight to them without gear)... you can rap with a 70m from here.

The height of the first bolt was intimidating, but the climbing to reach it is mercifully laid back. Cool flakes and jugs near the first bolt, followed by some semi-desperate crystal crunching. Worthwhile. Oct 5, 2014

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