Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Blanford, Jim Shubert, Keith Guillory, James Crump
Page Views: 537 total · 9/month
Shared By: Superclimber on Feb 17, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

You must be completely solid at the grade before attempting this route.

Prok is a pseudo-acronym meaning "protect at the crack."

Start on the low angle slab, right of Prok wall. One bolt is found on the somewhat steeper headwall. This bolt protects the hardest moves of the climb. Continue up and find quality pro in the horizontal crack below the shallow dihedral. A bold runout with ground fall potential ensues after stepping over the crack and following reasonably well featured high quality rock along the shallow dihedral. Above the dihedral there are a few confidence inspiring chicken heads before an opportunity for quality pro is found at the overlap near the top. Mount the overlap and finish.

As far as I know the earliest route on Prok wall was Farewell to Arms, which is now known as Runamuck. Runamuck followed the arching horizontal crack from left to right, then continued up from the right side to access the attractive shallow dihedral. The dihedral was left as an unprotected runout. Prok likely went up a short time later. In keeping with traditional principles, the shallow dihedral was left unbolted. Accordingly, this climb carries an X rating. The shallow dihedral feature has since been the subject of retro-bolting arguments. (If the above noted history is inaccurate, please post up or PM me and I'll change it).

Location

Found on the right side of Prok Wall and left of Baba Wawa. Look for a hard to spot bolt below the the arching horizontal crack, below and right of the shallow dihedral.

Protection

Be completely confident and competent at the grade before setting off on this one. 1 bolt, found down low protects the crux. Smaller to medium cams will protect the horizontal crack. Medium size cams will protect the upper overlap. It might be possible to find a useless gear placement in the dihedral, but I don't think anything found there would hold a significant fall. Double bolted anchors are found at the top. These have standard hangers (not rap hangers) without chains or links. You cannot rap from them. Use the designated rap anchors in the alcove to the skier's left of Prok. The rap anchors in the alcove serve as the designated rap anchors for parties climbing the Backside on a single 60. They are not intended to be used for all day rappelling or climbing. They do not protect any climb.

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