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Routes in The Shield

Amazing Gravy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ambulance Blues S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Crawl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deep Prok S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Elastic Happiness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fly on a Windshield T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
French Route T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
God's Elastic Acre T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gravitron T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Green Death TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Radio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Intensive Care T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
La Dolce Vita TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Matrimonio Feliz T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Mexican Radio T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nerdwand T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Prok T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pummel Jenga T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Real Gravy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Runamuck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sixth Happiness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stranger Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Stranger Than Friction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Texas Radio T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Blanford, Jim Shubert, Keith Guillory, James Crump
Page Views: 506 total · 9/month
Shared By: Superclimber on Feb 17, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


You must be completely solid at the grade before attempting this route.

Prok is a pseudo-acronym meaning "protect at the crack."

Start on the low angle slab, right of Prok wall. One bolt is found on the somewhat steeper headwall. This bolt protects the hardest moves of the climb. Continue up and find quality pro in the horizontal crack below the shallow dihedral. A bold runout with ground fall potential ensues after stepping over the crack and following reasonably well featured high quality rock along the shallow dihedral. Above the dihedral there are a few confidence inspiring chicken heads before an opportunity for quality pro is found at the overlap near the top. Mount the overlap and finish.

As far as I know the earliest route on Prok wall was Farewell to Arms, which is now known as Runamuck. Runamuck followed the arching horizontal crack from left to right, then continued up from the right side to access the attractive shallow dihedral. The dihedral was left as an unprotected runout. Prok likely went up a short time later. In keeping with traditional principles, the shallow dihedral was left unbolted. Accordingly, this climb carries an X rating. The shallow dihedral feature has since been the subject of retro-bolting arguments. (If the above noted history is inaccurate, please post up or PM me and I'll change it).


Found on the right side of Prok Wall and left of Baba Wawa. Look for a hard to spot bolt below the the arching horizontal crack, below and right of the shallow dihedral.


Be completely confident and competent at the grade before setting off on this one. 1 bolt, found down low protects the crux. Smaller to medium cams will protect the horizontal crack. Medium size cams will protect the upper overlap. It might be possible to find a useless gear placement in the dihedral, but I don't think anything found there would hold a significant fall. Double bolted anchors are found at the top. These have standard hangers (not rap hangers) without chains or links. You cannot rap from them. Use the designated rap anchors in the alcove to the skier's left of Prok. The rap anchors in the alcove serve as the designated rap anchors for parties climbing the Backside on a single 60. They are not intended to be used for all day rappelling or climbing. They do not protect any climb.



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