Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: James Crump, David Belton
Page Views: 1,239 total · 10/month
Shared By: J C Wilks on May 11, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

The face climbing standard of the rating at E-Rock, this route has an unprotectable start at about 5.8 to the right end of a ledge. Go left on the ledge which has a thin horizontal crack above it. The only pro this crack will take are two (equalized) slider nuts or RPs of the smallest sizes. Then a few moves left off the ledge to reach the first bolt and the crux section follows. Work out the moves over the steep crystal face past 3-4 bolts. Diagonal up to the right on increasingly lower angle face moves, over to the two bolt anchor above another horizontal crack. Pitch two is on a much easier run out slab with sparse pro.

Descent:
Go right on the large ledge above the second pitch to the rap station above News Wall or rap the first pitch. You can also scramble off either end of the ledge to walk over the top if you are done with the backside.

Location

French Route is located left of the Edge of Night hourglass flake on the right end of The Shield.

Protection

Bring a few small to med pieces to protect the thin crack and the exit moves.

Photos

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Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
  5.11a
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
  5.11a
This route is protected well on the low steep section but then becomes runout up easy terrain once you pull over the overlap where the two bolt intermediate belay is. Sep 20, 2010