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Routes in The Shield

Amazing Gravy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ambulance Blues S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Crawl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deep Prok S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Elastic Happiness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fly on a Windshield T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
French Route T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
God's Elastic Acre T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gravitron T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Green Death TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Radio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Intensive Care T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
La Dolce Vita TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Matrimonio Feliz T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Mexican Radio T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nerdwand T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Prok T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pummel Jenga T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Real Gravy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Runamuck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sixth Happiness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stranger Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Stranger Than Friction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Texas Radio T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: James Crump, David Belton
Page Views: 1,081 total · 10/month
Shared By: J C Wilks on May 11, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

The face climbing standard of the rating at E-Rock, this route has an unprotectable start at about 5.8 to the right end of a ledge. Go left on the ledge which has a thin horizontal crack above it. The only pro this crack will take are two (equalized) slider nuts or RPs of the smallest sizes. Then a few moves left off the ledge to reach the first bolt and the crux section follows. Work out the moves over the steep crystal face past 3-4 bolts. Diagonal up to the right on increasingly lower angle face moves, over to the two bolt anchor above another horizontal crack. Pitch two is on a much easier run out slab with sparse pro.

Descent:
Go right on the large ledge above the second pitch to the rap station above News Wall or rap the first pitch. You can also scramble off either end of the ledge to walk over the top if you are done with the backside.

Location

French Route is located left of the Edge of Night hourglass flake on the right end of The Shield.

Protection

Bring a few small to med pieces to protect the thin crack and the exit moves.

Photos

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Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
  5.11a
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
  5.11a
This route is protected well on the low steep section but then becomes runout up easy terrain once you pull over the overlap where the two bolt intermediate belay is. Sep 20, 2010