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Routes in The Shield

Amazing Gravy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ambulance Blues S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Crawl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deep Prok S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Elastic Happiness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fly on a Windshield T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
French Route T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
God's Elastic Acre T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gravitron T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Green Death TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Radio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Intensive Care T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
La Dolce Vita TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Matrimonio Feliz T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Mexican Radio T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nerdwand T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Prok T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pummel Jenga T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Real Gravy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Runamuck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sixth Happiness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stranger Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Stranger Than Friction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Texas Radio T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Rick Hahn, Jack Harvey
Page Views: 1,059 total, 8/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

The arch that makes up the first half of Runamuck is one of the more recognizable features on the right side of the Shield. To find the start of the route, look for an hourglass shaped flake that leans against the base of the wall beneath the arch. Climb the unprotected face for about 25 feet to the beginning of the arch (there is a good medium stopper placement here), and the follow it to the right (protects well with a variety of cams up to a #1 Camalot). As you traverse to the right you will past a couple of bolts on the face below you. At the end of the arch, place your last piece of pro for a while and turn the corner up into a small, shallow dihedral. Climb to a headwall with a couple of cracks running through it. There are a couple places here for small, spotty stopper placements that may or may not hold a fall, but the climbing is fairly positive to the anchor ledge. You can either rap from anchors along the ledge, or scramble up and over the top. Fun, thought provoking climb with a healthy runnout after the arch.

Protection

Standard trad rack with cams up to a #1 Camalot. Micro-stoppers and a #3 Camalot will also come in handy.

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mattm
TX
  5.7+ X
mattm   TX
  5.7+ X
Fantastic route - worth the effort so long as you're comfortable with the runout to the top. I'd give it a 5.7+ (5.5 X) rating. The hardest moves are the old school 5.7+ variety along the arch but are well protected with gear. The 40' runout in the groove is easier climbing but very much X-rated as you near the top of the groove. I looked pretty thoroughly behind the flake for a placement and while you might be able to get something to go in, I'd give any piece placed in there ZERO change of holding a fall. It's shallow, broken oatmeal granite in there. Get in good gear under the lip and go.

If you want to enjoy the gear but not the runout, you can get 2/3rds of the way across and then turn the lip early to link up with the 2 bolts left of Runamuck (Finsih of More Proks) Oct 11, 2016
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Great line along the arch! It was a bit wet for a few feet towards the end of the arch, but it rained the previous day.

I got in one questionable piece (small offset) in the "dihedral" between the arch and the headwall, but would not have wanted to fall on it. When in doubt... Sep 15, 2014
The original name given this route by the first ascentionists was Farewell to Arms. But I guess by the time the guide books were written the name was lost to history. Feb 14, 2014