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Routes in Sunset South

Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Agrippa T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Airy Arete T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Anteater T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear and Whiskey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liberty Bell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nicki’s Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Flaps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk in the Park T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Chesnutt and Randy Lane, 1987
Page Views: 120 total, 4/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jul 27, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

We were a little confused as to where to start this one. There are two cracks splitting the bulging wall at the start. I'll provide directions for both.

P1-the easy way: Take the right crack, which leads up to a substantial tree about 30 feet up. This is the same start as Northwest Conversion. When you get in the neighborhood of the tree, start angling left and up. There's a pine tree underneath the arete that marks the left end of the upper headwall. That's generally where you're headed. (60 feet, 5.6)

P1-the hard way: Take the left crack. Struggle through the bulge on disappointing holds. Once things ease off, continue up and slightly left toward the pine tree mentioned in the "easy way" description above. (50 feet, 5.10)

P2-the main event: Start off a big block/ledge, maybe 20 feet right of the pine tree. Monkey your way up and slightly right through a series of overhangs. Surmounting the last overhang deposits you on a flat, vertical white face sprinkled with lichen. A hand crack almost immediately closes down to a finger crack that drifts in and out of existence as it works its way up the face. Fight the urge to chicken out to the Northwest Conversion crack 15 feet to your right. 25 feet of technical and sustained climbing leads you up the face. Finish on easier ground through a large flared crack loaded with dinner plate jugs, about 10 feet left of the Northwest Conversion anchors. (70 feet, 5.10)

Location

On the Northwest Buttress, a little ways climber's left from the Silent Runner area. Look for a wall that starts off with a bulging overhang off the trail, then rounds over after about 20ft to low angle stuff. There's a noticeable tree growing out of the wall about 30 feet up. Up higher, things steepen into a beautiful white headwall.

This route eventually takes you up the left end of the higher headwall.

Protection

Standard rack will do fine. This thing takes stoppers like they're going out of style.

The route tops out maybe 8 feet or so left of the bolted anchors for Northwest Conversion. From those anchors, a single rappel with a 60m rope will just reach the ground.

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