Routes in Sunset South
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Adaptive Radiation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Agrippa T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Airy Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anteater Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Armadillo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Armadillo’s Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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B-52 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baby Cats T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beast, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Beauty, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beyond the Obvious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bought the Farm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Chipmunk Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crack-a-smile T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day After, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Deck Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Draft dodger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dyno Land T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Experimental animals T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fear and Whisky T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flash Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Years T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Grim Reaper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gut Strings T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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House of Cards T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Illusions T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lesbians in politics T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Liberty Bell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lizard Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lizards in Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mama Raccoon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Marty's Misconceptions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nicki's Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ode to the South T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Off to See the Lizard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Optical Delusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Overhead smash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Raiders of the Lost Arch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shy Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Skunk Fritter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Southern Fried Possum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Flaps T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squirrel Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed Dihedral Flake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walk in the Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Windmill T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Yin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.98786, -85.36257 |
| FA: | Chris Chesnutt and Randy Lane, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 908 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Chuck Parks on Jul 27, 2015 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
We were a little confused as to where to start this one. There are two cracks splitting the bulging wall at the start. I'll provide directions for both.
P1-the easy way: Take the right crack, which leads up to a substantial tree about 30 feet up. This is the same start as Northwest Conversion. When you get in the neighborhood of the tree, start angling left and up. There's a pine tree underneath the arete that marks the left end of the upper headwall. That's generally where you're headed. (60 feet, 5.6)
P1-the hard way: Take the left crack. Struggle through the bulge on disappointing holds. Once things ease off, continue up and slightly left toward the pine tree mentioned in the "easy way" description above. (50 feet, 5.10)
P2-the main event: Start off a big block/ledge, maybe 20 feet right of the pine tree. Monkey your way up and slightly right through a series of overhangs. Surmounting the last overhang deposits you on a flat, vertical white face sprinkled with lichen. A hand crack almost immediately closes down to a finger crack that drifts in and out of existence as it works its way up the face. Fight the urge to chicken out to the Northwest Conversion crack 15 feet to your right. 25 feet of technical and sustained climbing leads you up the face. Finish on easier ground through a large flared crack loaded with dinner plate jugs, about 10 feet left of the Northwest Conversion anchors. (70 feet, 5.10)
Location
On the Northwest Buttress, a little ways climber's left from the Silent Runner area. Look for a wall that starts off with a bulging overhang off the trail, then rounds over after about 20ft to low angle stuff. There's a noticeable tree growing out of the wall about 30 feet up. Up higher, things steepen into a beautiful white headwall.
This route eventually takes you up the left end of the higher headwall.



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