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Black Magic
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 12
votes
Routes in e. Black Magic Buttress
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Adaptive Radiation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Marty's Misconceptions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.99919, -85.35541 |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, Clint Henley, Peter Henley - 1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,861 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | bbrock on Jul 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
First pitch- Up through overhanging blocks split by a crack. I bypassed all this nonsense by jug hauling to the right. Next part of the pitch is very dirty.
Second Pitch- From bolted anchors up and right over a roof on tough finger locks. I never saw a pin anywhere. Up blank face and under a perfect hand crack splitting a big roof. Jam and then jug haul to the top.
The second pitch is what you're doing this route for. Dont be detered by the dirty first pitch.
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