All Locations > Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset South

Black Magic

Name: Black Magic
Rating: 3.1

5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13

Routes in Sunset South

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adaptive Radiation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Agrippa T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Airy Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Anteater Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Armadillo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Armadillo’s Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	B-52 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Baby Cats T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beast, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Beauty, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Beyond the Obvious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bought the Farm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Chipmunk Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Crack-a-smile T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Day After, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Deck Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Draft dodger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dyno Land T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Experimental animals T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fear and Whisky T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flash Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Golden Years T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Grim Reaper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Gut Strings T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	House of Cards T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Illusions T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lesbians in politics T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Liberty Bell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lizard Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lizards in Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mama Raccoon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Marty's Misconceptions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nicki's Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ode to the South T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Off to See the Lizard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Optical Delusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Overhead smash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Raiders of the Lost Arch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Shy Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Skunk Fritter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Southern Fried Possum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Space Flaps T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Squirrel Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Unnamed Dihedral Flake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Walk in the Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Windmill T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Yang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Yin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	34.98786, -85.36257
FA:	Rob Robinson, Clint Henley, Peter Henley - 1981
Page Views:	1,834 total · 9/month
Shared By:	bbrock on Jul 15, 2009
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

First pitch- Up through overhanging blocks split by a crack. I bypassed all this nonsense by jug hauling to the right. Next part of the pitch is very dirty.

Second Pitch- From bolted anchors up and right over a roof on tough finger locks. I never saw a pin anywhere. Up blank face and under a perfect hand crack splitting a big roof. Jam and then jug haul to the top.

The second pitch is what you're doing this route for. Dont be detered by the dirty first pitch.