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Routes in Sunset South

Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Agrippa T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Airy Arete T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Anteater T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear and Whiskey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liberty Bell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nicki’s Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Flaps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk in the Park T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tim McMillan, 1960s
Page Views: 2,870 total, 22/month
Shared By: 426 on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

From the ledge, face climb to a left-facing corner, then up to the shallow roof below a wide crack. Follow the big crack to the top.

Location

Starts on a spacious ledge just left of Train Time. Look for the obvious wide crack in the roof up high, almost dead in the middle of Celebrity Flake.

Protection

Some wide gear. Up to about a 4 Camalot. Anchors on top

Photos

WARNING!!! there is a GIANT loose "L" shaped block right after the first ledge, and right before the little roof. It is unavoidable! I will work on getting a picture up, but it is marked. The whole thing shifted when my buddy was repelling, just a little touch moved it.

edit: see pictures, someone else all ready said as much. Nov 23, 2015
Brad Stewart
Aspen
  5.8+
Brad Stewart   Aspen
  5.8+
Had 1 #4 camalot and walked it up about half way until I got to the easier terrain. Fun climb with some interesting moves. Jun 22, 2015
khowe
Knoxville, TN
  5.8+
khowe   Knoxville, TN
  5.8+
Classic route and a possible sandbagged 8. If you're not proficient in off-width cracks, like myself, you'll probably want to bring 2 #4's and maybe a #3 for the top. Apr 14, 2014
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Great crack. Nice because the committing wide moves are spaced between decent jams. Apr 9, 2012
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
A definite Sunset classic! Three years ago, I first struggled through this one on toprope and I had no real memory of it, so leading it was an Alzheimer's onsight. The jams in the big crack are great, and there's enough room in spots to get your whole arm or a leg in for a needed rest. I was really glad I brought the big gear; I had a #3 and #4 Camalot and a #5 Wild Country, used all three and wouldn't have minded having one more big piece. Super fun and challenging lead! Jul 5, 2008