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Routes in Sunset South

Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Agrippa T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Airy Arete T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Anteater T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear and Whiskey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liberty Bell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nicki’s Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Flaps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk in the Park T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Page Views: 5,764 total, 43/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

This sustained moderate is a three-star classic, with solid protection and fun moves all the way. Probably the best for the grade at Sunset -- don't miss it!

Start with face climbing to a small overhang, then follow a crack system to the top.

Location

Starts about 10' right of Second Sun.

Protection

Small to medium gear. Bolted anchors.
Small loose block at the bottom. Not a big deal but its right where I was placing some gear. Just FYI Aug 5, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7+ PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7+ PG13
Did it several yrs ago, but do remember there was a definite run-out section (in middle [?] ) where I got good pro BUT needed a 6 ft sling on it to keep rope drag down. Feb 21, 2017
Gable Jackson
Dahlonega, Georgia
Gable Jackson   Dahlonega, Georgia
If I was a 5.7-5.8 leader I might be wary of leading this route. Maybe I just passed up all the "great gear" mentioned above but I only found about 7 placements in 90', 2 of which I wouldn't have trusted. The climbing itself however was great. May 9, 2015
CraigS.
  5.7+
CraigS.  
  5.7+
Pretty good climb. Fun all the way. Didn't have trouble protecting it at any time. Wife actually made a comment about me using too many pieces. For the peace of mind, didn't bother me. Plenty of places for nuts. Jun 30, 2013
Charles Cooper
  5.7+
Charles Cooper  
  5.7+
There were a couple of challenges leading this. I climbed it again on TR after leading and thought it was a total blast. Felt it probably really is 5.7+. Protects well for the most part - mostly small to medium gear and some nuts. Used a red C3 and a red DMM offset nut. Very fun Crack system. May 13, 2013
highneed
  5.7+
highneed  
  5.7+
Not sure if I was tired or what but I didn't find this route to be great, I found Jugular Vein to be the better 5.7 on this wall. Aug 20, 2012
TKHouse
  5.7+
TKHouse  
  5.7+
BETA-HATERS BEWARE:

I managed to plug several pieces in the first 20 feet or so, all smaller cams.

From about 20 feet to 30 feet up, however, there is no gear. Not hard terrain, but you don't want to slip up or you're taking a little ride on the slab.

Phenomenal route, the crack is great fun, it's a constant 5.7 with few good rests and even fewer jams, almost all face business. Great fun.

"Best 7 in the state" according to the Craggers Atlas..? I still love Jay Walker, but that may be my T-Wall bias.

This is a great route. Aug 12, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
hard to find, its the right hand of the two obvious routs on this wall.

no gear for the first 20' or so, the climbing is probably 5.5-5.6. Oct 25, 2010