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Routes in Sunset South

Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Agrippa T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Airy Arete T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Anteater T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear and Whiskey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liberty Bell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nicki’s Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Flaps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk in the Park T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Page Views: 2,523 total, 19/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Dec 1, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Second Sun is a full-value 5.9 that gets a well-deserved three stars in the DCA. Occasionally strenuous stances for placing pro mean you better be solid at the grade to lead this route.

A somewhat slabby start moves into a short, shallow dihedral, then to thin moves over a bulge. Continue up to a small roof; pull the roof move and follow another dihedral to a more juggy finish.

Location

Starts just left of Blonde Ambition.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams. Bolted anchors.

Photos

khowe
Knoxville, TN
  5.9+
khowe   Knoxville, TN
  5.9+
The stances for gear were fine, and while pro is not great, it is sufficient. I had two small cams blow when I fell at the second crux; a #8 stopper eventually caught me. Made for a memorable fall. Jul 23, 2017
Kris Kyle
Atlanta, GA, From the Front Ra
 
Kris Kyle   Atlanta, GA, From the Front Ra
 
Small cams protect the first crux well... didn't seem too heady (but was a lot of fun!) Jul 10, 2015
Johan Grahnen
Palo Alto, CA
Johan Grahnen   Palo Alto, CA
The flake at the start flexes slightly under outward pull, so be careful when placing cams behind it. Jun 16, 2013
Sam Adams
Knoxville
 
Sam Adams   Knoxville
 
Stances for placing gear were fine to me. The unnerving part was climbing above my gear at the first crux, but that's way cool once you've done it. Aug 24, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Outstanding route. I enjoyed leading it so much that I had to bump it up to four stars! Aug 13, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.9
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.9
I don't remember stances for gear being that bad at all... though there were some heady moves above a #3 stopper at the crux. Awesome route with great protection! Dec 12, 2006