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Second Sun

5.9+, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 3 from 45 votes
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset South

Description

Second Sun is a full-value 5.9 that gets a well-deserved three stars in the DCA. Occasionally strenuous stances for placing pro mean you better be solid at the grade to lead this route.

A somewhat slabby start moves into a short, shallow dihedral, then to thin moves over a bulge. Continue up to a small roof; pull the roof move and follow another dihedral to a more juggy finish.

Location

Starts just left of Blonde Ambition.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams. Bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

corey on second sun
[Hide Photo] corey on second sun

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I don't remember stances for gear being that bad at all... though there were some heady moves above a #3 stopper at the crux. Awesome route with great protection! Dec 12, 2006
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Outstanding route. I enjoyed leading it so much that I had to bump it up to four stars! Aug 13, 2007
Sam Adams
Knoxville
 
[Hide Comment] Stances for placing gear were fine to me. The unnerving part was climbing above my gear at the first crux, but that's way cool once you've done it. Aug 24, 2009
Johan Grahnen
Palo Alto, CA
[Hide Comment] The flake at the start flexes slightly under outward pull, so be careful when placing cams behind it. Jun 16, 2013
Kris Kyle
Honolulu, From the Front Range
 
[Hide Comment] Small cams protect the first crux well... didn't seem too heady (but was a lot of fun!) Jul 10, 2015
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] The stances for gear were fine, and while pro is not great, it is sufficient. I had two small cams blow on a hot and muggy day in July when I fell making the moves over the final roof into the dihedral; a #8 stopper eventually caught me. Made for a memorable fall. Jul 23, 2017