All Locations > Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset South

The Beast

Name: The Beast
Rating: 3.7

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13

Routes in Sunset South

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adaptive Radiation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Agrippa T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Airy Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Anteater Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Armadillo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Armadillo’s Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	B-52 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Baby Cats T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beast, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Beauty, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Beyond the Obvious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bought the Farm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Chipmunk Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Crack-a-smile T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Day After, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Deck Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Draft dodger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dyno Land T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Experimental animals T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fear and Whisky T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flash Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Golden Years T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Grim Reaper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Gut Strings T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	House of Cards T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lesbians in politics T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Liberty Bell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lizard Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lizards in Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mama Raccoon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nicki's Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ode to the South T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Off to See the Lizard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Optical Delusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Overhead smash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Raiders of the Lost Arch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Shy Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Skunk Fritter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Southern Fried Possum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Space Flaps T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Squirrel Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Unnamed Dihedral Flake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Walk in the Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Windmill T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Yang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Yin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	34.98786, -85.36257
FA:	Rob Robinson, Forrest Gardner 8/85
Page Views:	323 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Andrew Richardson on Sep 6, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Cruised The Beauty and ready for a headier challenge? Look five feet to the right for a greater struggle in the form of another tricky, thin seam.

Start up on Beauty for about 10 feet then traverse to the Beast crack line using hidden holds and tricky beta. From there, power up the thin line of tiny side pulls, bloody fingertip locks, and smear-y feet until presented with a bulge that must be conquered. Blast through the bulge and the hardest part is handled, though there's another 20 feet of lichen-y face climbing to be navigated with at least a couple thin moves involved. Fire up and slightly right to the newly placed anchors (Sept. 2023).

Location

Between The Beauty and Divinity Crack, up in the alcove above the main trail. The easiest way to find this section of the wall is spot the finger crack Agrippa, walk up the obvious sloping trail to it, then turn left until you hit these climbs.

Protection

Nothing larger than 0.75, emphasis on the small stuff. People have decked on this climb before due to the low crux and laybacking nature, but it can be protected safely with a bit of caution or a single pre-placed piece.