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Routes in Sunset South

Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Agrippa T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Airy Arete T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Anteater T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear and Whiskey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liberty Bell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nicki’s Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Flaps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk in the Park T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marvin Webb and Rob Robinson 1981
Page Views: 1,113 total, 10/month
Shared By: Roodbass on Mar 25, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

One of the least climbed routes here. The first pitch doesn't register on the fun factor scale, but the second pitch is super fun, exposed, great holds and excellent protection. To start, climb past a large pine tree to a ledge. Follow right-facing dihedral and step left to a belay 50 feet. Pitch 2, Follow steep crack in lichened wall. At bulge step left and follow short crack 60 feet. There is a direct finish 10b. Rather than stepping left, finish directly over the bulge at the top of pitch two.

Location

Located on the Northwest Buttress and 100 feet right of Pigs in Space. It is 25 minutes from the trail split.

Protection

Bring a set of nuts, small tricams and some TCUs. You might also carry a .75 or #1 cam. Anchors at top.

Photos

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paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
 
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
 
I ended up building a belay after the right facing corner as well, which to me felt like the crux of the route. I commented to my partner that I thought I had started his pitch, seeing as the corner was definitely harder than 5.7. That being said, this was a super fun route. The belay perch was great and worth the extra time for the exposure. P2 was fun jugs. My partner stepped out left for the 5.9 finish, but I went straight up on TR. Solid 5.10 move on some crimps to the anchors. Bring lots of runners for this one, especially if you want to do it in 1 pitch Jul 11, 2016
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
Not sure what "wrong" for us either. The right facing corner was awkward and harder than 5.7. We belayed on the ledge above and left of the corner. This was more like 60-70 ft from the ground. P2 wound up being more like 40-50 feet. Frankly we thought P2 wasn't any harder than P1. The last bit before the anchors seems tricky but is all there. Rope stretcher all the way to the ground from the anchors with 60m Jun 29, 2015
highneed
  5.9
highneed  
  5.9
Not sure what went wrong but the "Right Facing" corner seemed unfun so I went straight up over the roofs at the "Right Facing" corner, which was really fun, not 5.9 but great holds and protection. Doing it this way I was able to do it in one pitch and belay the follower from the ground. Aug 27, 2012
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.9
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.9
One of my top favorite climbs at Sunset! The first 30 feet to the tree (pitch 1) aren't really much to speak of but the top is awesome with some good jams and exposure! Bring long runners. Apr 23, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
60m will get you to the ground, but you can't belay your follower from the ground. Instead build a trad anchor near the tree lower down. Also, this can be done one long awesome pitch. Just sling the gear in the right facing dihedral before the ledge extra long, or extend it after you make the move below the ledge. Oct 24, 2011