Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marvin Webb and Rob Robinson 1981
Page Views: 1,249 total · 10/month
Shared By: Roodbass on Mar 25, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

One of the least climbed routes here. The first pitch doesn't register on the fun factor scale, but the second pitch is super fun, exposed, great holds and excellent protection. To start, climb past a large pine tree to a ledge. Follow right-facing dihedral and step left to a belay 50 feet. Pitch 2, Follow steep crack in lichened wall. At bulge step left and follow short crack 60 feet. There is a direct finish 10b. Rather than stepping left, finish directly over the bulge at the top of pitch two.

Location

Located on the Northwest Buttress and 100 feet right of Pigs in Space. It is 25 minutes from the trail split.

Protection

Bring a set of nuts, small tricams and some TCUs. You might also carry a .75 or #1 cam. Anchors at top.

Photos

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TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
60m will get you to the ground, but you can't belay your follower from the ground. Instead build a trad anchor near the tree lower down. Also, this can be done one long awesome pitch. Just sling the gear in the right facing dihedral before the ledge extra long, or extend it after you make the move below the ledge. Oct 24, 2011
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.9
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.9
One of my top favorite climbs at Sunset! The first 30 feet to the tree (pitch 1) aren't really much to speak of but the top is awesome with some good jams and exposure! Bring long runners. Apr 23, 2012
highneed
  5.9
highneed  
  5.9
Not sure what went wrong but the "Right Facing" corner seemed unfun so I went straight up over the roofs at the "Right Facing" corner, which was really fun, not 5.9 but great holds and protection. Doing it this way I was able to do it in one pitch and belay the follower from the ground. Aug 27, 2012
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
Not sure what "wrong" for us either. The right facing corner was awkward and harder than 5.7. We belayed on the ledge above and left of the corner. This was more like 60-70 ft from the ground. P2 wound up being more like 40-50 feet. Frankly we thought P2 wasn't any harder than P1. The last bit before the anchors seems tricky but is all there. Rope stretcher all the way to the ground from the anchors with 60m Jun 29, 2015
paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
 
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
 
I ended up building a belay after the right facing corner as well, which to me felt like the crux of the route. I commented to my partner that I thought I had started his pitch, seeing as the corner was definitely harder than 5.7. That being said, this was a super fun route. The belay perch was great and worth the extra time for the exposure. P2 was fun jugs. My partner stepped out left for the 5.9 finish, but I went straight up on TR. Solid 5.10 move on some crimps to the anchors. Bring lots of runners for this one, especially if you want to do it in 1 pitch Jul 11, 2016
i had overlooked this climb for a long time. It really is much better than it looks and the second pitch is nice and slightly exposed. all in all very fun. Apr 13, 2018