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Routes in Sunset South

Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Agrippa T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Airy Arete T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Anteater T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear and Whiskey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liberty Bell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nicki’s Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Flaps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Walk in the Park T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Smith, 1976
Page Views: 1,240 total, 10/month
Shared By: 426 on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Grunt up a slot to the obvious 3-4" "Pancake" flake. Lieback and jam through fun, albeit somewhat dirty moves.

Location

20' right of Train Time on the Celebrity Flake. Ring anchors on top.

Protection

Some wide stuff, perhaps to 4". There is a fixed pin above the squeeze chimney.

Photos

Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
5.9
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
5.9
I brought 2 #4 camalots and 4 #3 camalots. That seemed just about right. As you finish the flake and end on a ledge, the anchors are out of sight. Continue climbing up, about 10 feet above the ledge, then traverse left 7 ft or so to ring anchors. Oct 10, 2016
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Amazing route, don't skimp on the wider hand pieces. One of my favorites. Apr 9, 2012