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Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall

Brother Toad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother Lode T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Other Road, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perpetual Doubt S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pirate Mode T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rad Lad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Squid Kid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Change of Season T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trooper Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 1,362 total, 45/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Jun 17, 2015
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1. 10b. Balance and stem past the first couple of bolts following angled rails. From bolt 3 to the anchors, the route keeps your attention. Pass a small tree midway, and follow bolts through two overlaps on positive holds. Belay at a sloping ledge at a ring anchor, 13 bolts, 95 feet.

Pitch 2. 11b. Move up and right then fire straight up through 5.10 flakes to a 5.11 slab crux, it's Monitor right. Pass two more bolts to another ring anchor at a good stance, 12 bolts, 85 feet.

Pitch 3. 10+/11-. Start by balancing left of the belay stance to a shallow crack, small cams protect a move left to the first of 8 bolts. Pass a block with an optional knee bar past two more bolts then fire upward then left to a hidden stance in a left facing corner, follow the black hangers. This pitch is about 90 feet long and is a gently rising traverse to the left. Engaging all the way to the anchor. 8 bolts, small cams, 90 feet.

Pitch 4. 10a, Move up about 10 feet off the belay stance, clip a bolt then bring out the cams for the remaining 50 feet. This is a good left leaning corner that takes you to a bolted anchor at a good stance. This stance is below the large orangish finishing corner on Trooper Traverse. 1 bolt, small to med cams, 60 feet.

Pitch 5. 11b, Move up and left in moderate terrain, aiming for a beautiful right facing flake. Climb the flake using medium sized cams, 5.8, for about 12 feet then step right to the first of 9 bolts through a steep headwall. Very fun movement over a bulge leads to easier climbing and an anchor below the summit dome. 9 bolts, cams, 125 feet.

It is possible to rap from the top anchor to the p. 5 belay stance with a 70m rope barely, knot the end of your rope. You can then rap to p.4 anchor, short rap, then two raps on random anchors that get you to the ground. There are anchors all over this section of cliff.

Location

Start immediately left of Rad Lad and right of a stepped, right-facing corner.

Protection

Cams from tips to #2 Camalot, #3 is optional, small nuts, long slings, and draws. Bring a 70m rope if you want to rap with a single rope.

There are chain/ring anchors atop each pitch.
davedad
Carbondale, CO
 
davedad   Carbondale, CO
 
This is an awesome multi-pitch. Amazing vision to find this route and bolt it- especially the unlikely and amazing 3rd pitch. So good- thanks to Lynn and Josh for all their work to make this route happen. Aug 21, 2017
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
Good long route. I really liked pitches 2 and 5. five being my favorite. Well-bolted. I had a little trouble figuring out which way to go on pitch 3 because of the other routes nearby. Near the top of the traversing 3rd pitch, make sure you keep climbing left on the black bolts. I started heading up what I believe might have been the top of Fearless. I ended up traversing over to the anchors after clipping up a couple bolts on Fearless, which was fun but for sure not the way to do it. I will have to come back another time and climb Fearless from the beginning. Thanks for another great multi-pitch on Monitor. Oct 23, 2016
Amos Whiting
Basalt, Colorado
 
Amos Whiting   Basalt, Colorado
 
Great route. Well-protected and engaging climbing with plenty of bolts but some gear to be placed as well. I will be back for this one!

- a bit hard to clip the crux bolt on pitch 2.
- good to clip the anchor when leaving the belay for P3 as it is a bit runout right away.
- great pitch description on MP.

Go do it! Sep 27, 2016
Climbed all 5 pitches yesterday. All are very fun. My only addition is pitch 3 felt hard for .10+ right where the traverse ends and the route goes straight up. Sep 4, 2016
Only climbed the first pitch - it is a fun 10b in its own right. A good option if Squid Kid is taken. Aug 22, 2016
Josh Gross  
 
Meltdown has 5 pitches that are each different and unique. Makes for a fun tour straight up the center of Monitor on great stone! Aug 1, 2016
Today Cheryl and I did a fun link-up that included the second pitch of Meltdown. A recommendable combo of three good 5.11 pitches.

P1 - climb Rad Lad, 5.11b.
P2 - join the second pitch of Meltdown at the third bolt (up and left of the Rad Lad anchor). When you get to the Meltdown anchor, go up and right 20' to a slightly better ledge and anchor, 5.11a/b.
P3- climb the route straight above the anchor, easy face climbing to a left-leaning flake then hard face climbing toward the top. This pitch is awesome and should get climbed more, 5.11b/c.

We had an 80m rope and rapped from the anchor at the big ledge to the top of Matched It and from there to the ground (it would be 3 raps with a 70m).

Many thanks to Lynn and Josh for all of their hard work at Monitor! Jun 27, 2016