Avg: 2.6 from 19 votes
Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall
|Brother Toad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hemp Seeds Sowed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Mother Lode T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Other Road, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Otis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Perpetual Doubt S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pirate Mode T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rad Lad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Squid Kid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Temporary Change of Season T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Trooper Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson|
|Page Views:||1,362 total, 45/month|
|Shared By:||Lynn S on Jun 17, 2015|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionPitch 1. 10b. Balance and stem past the first couple of bolts following angled rails. From bolt 3 to the anchors, the route keeps your attention. Pass a small tree midway, and follow bolts through two overlaps on positive holds. Belay at a sloping ledge at a ring anchor, 13 bolts, 95 feet.
Pitch 2. 11b. Move up and right then fire straight up through 5.10 flakes to a 5.11 slab crux, it's Monitor right. Pass two more bolts to another ring anchor at a good stance, 12 bolts, 85 feet.
Pitch 3. 10+/11-. Start by balancing left of the belay stance to a shallow crack, small cams protect a move left to the first of 8 bolts. Pass a block with an optional knee bar past two more bolts then fire upward then left to a hidden stance in a left facing corner, follow the black hangers. This pitch is about 90 feet long and is a gently rising traverse to the left. Engaging all the way to the anchor. 8 bolts, small cams, 90 feet.
Pitch 4. 10a, Move up about 10 feet off the belay stance, clip a bolt then bring out the cams for the remaining 50 feet. This is a good left leaning corner that takes you to a bolted anchor at a good stance. This stance is below the large orangish finishing corner on Trooper Traverse. 1 bolt, small to med cams, 60 feet.
Pitch 5. 11b, Move up and left in moderate terrain, aiming for a beautiful right facing flake. Climb the flake using medium sized cams, 5.8, for about 12 feet then step right to the first of 9 bolts through a steep headwall. Very fun movement over a bulge leads to easier climbing and an anchor below the summit dome. 9 bolts, cams, 125 feet.
It is possible to rap from the top anchor to the p. 5 belay stance with a 70m rope barely, knot the end of your rope. You can then rap to p.4 anchor, short rap, then two raps on random anchors that get you to the ground. There are anchors all over this section of cliff.