Type: Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 3,363 total · 45/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Jun 17, 2015
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1. 10b. Start at the bottom of a stepped R-facing corner.  From bolt 3 to the anchors, the route keeps your attention. Pass a small tree midway, and follow bolts through two overlaps on positive holds. Belay at a sloping ledge at a ring anchor, 13 bolts, 95 feet.

Pitch 2. 11b. Move up and right then fire straight up through 5.10 flakes to a 5.11 slab crux, it's Monitor right. Pass two more bolts to another ring anchor at a good stance, 12 bolts, 85 feet.

Pitch 3. 10+/11-. Start by balancing left of the belay stance to a shallow crack, small cams protect a move left to the first of 8 bolts. Pass a block with an optional knee bar past two more bolts then fire upward then left to a hidden stance in a left facing corner, follow the black hangers. This pitch is about 90 feet long and is a gently rising traverse to the left. Engaging all the way to the anchor. 8 bolts, small cams, 90 feet.

Pitch 4. 10a, Move up about 10 feet off the belay stance, clip a bolt then bring out the cams for the remaining 50 feet. This is a good left leaning corner that takes you to a bolted anchor at a good stance. This stance is below the large orangish finishing corner on Trooper Traverse. 1 bolt, small to med cams, 60 feet.

Pitch 5. 11b, Move up and left in moderate terrain, aiming for a beautiful right facing flake. Climb the flake using medium sized cams, 5.8, for about 12 feet then step right to the first of 9 bolts through a steep headwall. Very fun movement over a bulge leads to easier climbing and an anchor below the summit dome. 9 bolts, cams, 125 feet.

It is possible to rap from the top anchor to the p. 5 belay stance with a 70m rope barely, knot the end of your rope. You can then rap to p.4 anchor, short rap, then two raps on random anchors that get you to the ground. There are anchors all over this section of cliff.

Location

Start left of Rad Lad at the beginning of a stepped right-facing corner.

Protection

Cams from tips to #2 Camalot, #3 is optional, small nuts, long slings, and draws. Bring a 70m rope if you want to rap with a single rope.

There are chain/ring anchors atop each pitch.

Photos