Type: | Trad, Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | FA. Wes Peterson, D Trimm 93' |
Page Views: | 7,340 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | Gordo Bro on Sep 9, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Scramble up easy ramps/ledges to cleft marking start of Trooper Traverse. This is the eye-attracting, left-facing dihedral/crack system on the right side of the face.
P1. Face climb straight up with sparse protection (small nuts, Aliens) mixed with 3 bolts. The 2nd bolt protects the traversing crux. Finish to the ledge from the last bolt going either right (harder) or left. Stop at a 2 bolt belay anchor with chains.
P2. Layback/jam flake to a ledge midway with a bolt. Move up into left-angling crack with good jams and cam placements (up to a #4 Friend), turn the corner, climb up to a bolt, then traverse face holds back right and up to a large, sloping ledge with 3 bolt belay (~120 feet).
P3. Clip multiple bolts angling left to crux layback/sidepull on small holds well-protected by a bolt, then continue up and back right to ledge with a tree.
Descent: do a one rope rap to the 2nd pitch belay ledge. Do a two rope rap to the start of the route. Scramble to the ground.
Or per bl0nd3 marm0t: with a single 70m, rap from P3 anchor to anchor just left and below P2 anchors (The Other Road). Two raps from here get you down without any shenanigans. Have fun.
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