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Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall

Brother Toad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother Lode T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Other Road, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perpetual Doubt S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pirate Mode T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rad Lad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Squid Kid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Change of Season T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trooper Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,324 total, 32/month
Shared By: Gordo Bro on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Scramble up easy ramps/ledges to cleft marking start of Trooper Traverse. This is the eye-attracting, left-facing dihedral/crack system on the right side of the face.

P1. Face climb straight up with sparse protection (small nuts, Aliens) mixed with 3 bolts. 2nd bolt protects the traversing crux. Finish to ledge from last bolt going either right (harder) or left. 2-bolt belay anchor with chains.

P2. Layback/jam flake to ledge midway with bolt. Move up into left-angling crack with good jams and cam placements (up to #4 Friend), turn the corner and up to a bolt, then traverse face holds back right and up to a large sloping ledge with 3-bolt belay (~120 feet).

P3. Clip multiple bolts angling left to crux layback/sidepull on small holds well-protected by bolt, then continue up and back right to ledge with tree.

Descent: One-rope rap to 2nd-pitch belay ledge. Two-rope rap to start of route. Scramble to ground.

Location

This is located up and right from the trailhead. It starts to the right of Trooper Traverse.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. Longs slings are useful.

Photos

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D. Scott Clark
Boulder
 
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
 
Climbed pitch 1&3, possibly of Pirate Mode. I don't really know, just climbed the most obvious line straight up towards the stellar crack. Super confusing with bolts everywhere. P2 is classic. P3 I came pretty close to getting blown off while clipping with hurricane force winds. Jun 12, 2017
Jon McHugh
Fort Collins
 
Jon McHugh   Fort Collins
 
This route is sustained. I was able to place a 0.1 and 2 Aliens so that the first pitch didn't have much more than 5 ft. of run out. The third pitch eases up, but the climbing is a little awkward. Jul 16, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
All of the bolts on the Mother Lode were replaced/updated with hardware from the ASCA. So, for route finding, you can no longer just look for the old coldshuts. The new bolts are Fixe ASCA bolts that are painted reddish-brown and stand out from the hangers on the new routes close by. One note, we moved the last pitch anchor up and left because the rock for the old anchor was kind of funky. We left one of the old anchor bolts there, with a new hanger. Hence, you could end up clipping 8 bolts on the last pitch before getting to the anchor. Jul 25, 2015
Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
 
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
 
P2 is amazing. For pro, I had it all with me but did not place anything larger than a #1 Camalot, and I don't like to run it out much. Mostly finger-sized pro. Jul 13, 2015
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10
For those who are interested, we were able to rap with a single 70m. First rap down to the new anchors (The Other Road) down and left of the anchors at the top of Motherlode 2nd pitch. From there, straight down to top of first pitch of Trooper Traverse anchor. And one rap from there to the ground. Jun 8, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
The second pitch is fantastic. For those comfortable at the grade, singles to #3 Camalot and stoppers should be plenty of gear to do the route. Jun 27, 2011
Cold shuts let you know you are on the right route as of 6/27/2011. Fun climb. Crux on first pitch is devious. Second pitch rocks, and the third pitch is funky but interesting. Jun 27, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
This route was a lot of fun! As far as routefinding goes, when there are bolts everywhere, follow the old rings and not the new shiny hangers to stay on route.

Clayton Oct 4, 2010
Looks like I did the last pitch of Pirate Mode instead of Mother Lode. From the second belay after the left-facing corner on Mother Lode, there are two bolt lines continuing up. The one going straight up with the newer bolts is, I guess, Pirate Mode. This is the one we did which may explain the lichen. The bolt line going up and left is Mother Lode. I'll have to go back and finish that. Jul 7, 2010
First pitch was sort of sketchy the way the bolts were placed. I think next time it would be worth it to just avoid it by doing the first pitch or two of Trooper Traverse, and traverse right to the base of the left-facing dihedral. Bolts were poorly placed with big falls onto slab, not great supplemental pro. Second pitch was certainly classic, 10a max, maybe easier w/ good pro. Rack of singles will easily get you through. I was using Camalots and brought nothing bigger than a number 3 which I didn't use. Actualy I used the smaller blue and gray as well as small TCUs and nuts more than anything. I made the mistake of breaking up the second pitch by creating an anchor at a bolt with a chain. Don't do that, keep going left up the layback flake. Third pitch didn't seem to get done often, lots of lichen, not terribly interesting. The second pitch is about as good as it gets, cool moves, great pro, incredible setting. Enjoy! Jul 4, 2010
GringoD
Boulder, CO
  5.10
GringoD   Boulder, CO
  5.10
I've got to go back and finish this climb. We only climbed to the "ledge-with-a-bolt" after getting rained on. I thought the bolts on the 1st pitch were poorly placed. The 1st one was too low and the 2nd one was just out of reach. In any case, I decided to head left just under bolt #2 toward the Trooper Traverse line. Since people were on the TT, I climbed back right after mantling the bushy ledge that is even w/ the 1st belay station. I was quite amused @ the crappy bolt and hanger just down and to the right of the 2-bolt/chain belay station. There's a big piece of loose-sounding and somewhat detached-looking rock about 40' up the 2nd pitch. It's tempting to jam the hell out of the sides of it. I tip-toed around it. Jul 9, 2007
3 raps with a 70, left of the route. A 60 will not make it.

No big gear required- stoppers and cams to 2.5" sews up the second pitch. Sep 10, 2006