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Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall

Brother Toad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother Lode T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Other Road, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perpetual Doubt S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pirate Mode T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rad Lad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Squid Kid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Change of Season T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trooper Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,002 total, 52/month
Shared By: Christopher Marks on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The start of the route is up right from where the trail meets the rock.

P1. Scramble 50 feet up to the bottom of a vegetated gully. Slog up the gully for 100 feet, then traverse left out of the gully and into an alcove with a fixed belay (5.7).

P2. The crux is pulling through the roof/bulge starting the second pitch (5.8). Sail up the long ramp ~150 feet (5.6), up to large ledge with a 2 bolt belay.

P3. Start 50 feet, traverse left, and build belay.

P4. Two options for the last pitch: head straight up climbing flakes or trend right into a left-facing corner with wide hands to fist jamming up to another two bolt belay anchor (5.8). This way is sustained with an overhung feel to it as it leans out left.

Descent: rappel the route with 2 60m ropes in two to three raps, multiple anchor options as there are many rap anchors.

Protection

Full rack no doubles really needed, but bring along that #4 for the last pitch.
Michael Sammartino
Eagle, Colorado
  5.8 PG13
Michael Sammartino   Eagle, Colorado
  5.8 PG13
If you do the dihedral finish, be careful with which anchors you rap off of. My partner and I traversed to the first set of rap anchors to the south (climber's right if looking up at the summit)... turns out the actual rap anchors are further right than that! There are so many anchors up there that it's very easy to get confused and lost while rappelling if you don't know already which anchors to use.

From the top of pitch 4b, traverse towards the road, past the first anchors to a larger ledge. Those are the rap anchors that will get you down in two raps on a 70m. Sep 13, 2017
Kyle Broxterman
Snowmass Village, CO
 
Kyle Broxterman   Snowmass Village, CO
 
Start: directly right of the trees at trailhead wall, up a series of ramps/ledges to an obvious spot at the base of the large, left-leaning dihedral.
Pitch 1) (5.7-5.8) very short pitch up a small chimney and some cracks to a ledge with a 2 bolted anchor.
Pitch 2) (5.8 crux) pull a bulging roof with good jams and a piton, continue up the dihedral to another roof, traverse out left around this roof to an awesome ledge with a rap station, and build an anchor here.
Pitch 3) (5.7) continue up the dihedral with fun, easy climbing to an obvious ledge that continues directly horizontally to your left.
Pitch 4) (5.8) here we combined the traverse pitch with the final pitch (we had a 70m rope). Traverse left across a series of ledges, using the rap stations as some pro. Then start climbing up towards an large, right-facing flake. Lieback the flake to a roof. Pull the roof (5.7), watch out for a loose rock on top of the roof, and continue up and left until you reach a large, narrow ledge. From here, looking up you should see a set of old rusty bolts about 20ft above you and a piton in a crack about 10ft above you. Climb the face (balancy 5.8), and access the top of the climb. DO NOT USE the rusty bolts for an anchor, we built a TRAD anchor in the obvious vertical crack a little farther up.

Choices afterward:
1. Choose a route up the Summit Dome of Monitor, several options.
2. Rap off the wall (2 ropes).
3. Walk around the Summit Dome (East) and walk off the back, obvious trail. Aug 30, 2017
Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
Found some gear on the upper pitches of Meltdown and Trooper today. Identify it, contact me via here, and I'll get it back to you. Jun 11, 2017
Pete F.
Carbondale, CO
  5.8
Pete F.   Carbondale, CO
  5.8
Some fun climbing. Use care - you could easily trundle down loose marbles to softballs on climbers below. Sep 13, 2015
Matt Zia
Bozeman, MT
 
Matt Zia   Bozeman, MT
 
Highly suggest the direct finish. After heading left multiple times into runout (but easy) hollow flake and loose block land, I went back this summer and went up the hand/fist crack after the left traverse on the 3rd pitch. Way, way better. Steeper, good rests between moves, and solid rock the whole way. It's definitely a bit more vegetated than the normal finish but not excessively so. I think 5.9 is fair. Sep 1, 2015
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The first pitch anchor was updated with hardware from the ASCA. Jul 25, 2015
garrick steele
Golden, CO
garrick steele   Golden, CO
Two 60 meter ropes did not get me down in two raps, bring two 70 meter ropes or expect to do a third rap with a single 60 meter rope. Jul 28, 2014
Frogmen83
  5.8
Frogmen83  
  5.8
Great route with an alpine feel.
Pitch 1: hiked up the grassy 3rd class section to rock to start instead of starting on ground. Pitch 1 was the least enjoyable.
Pitch 2: you need a 70m to reach the pitch 3 belay described in the description. We had a 60m and I had to simul-climb up to the 5.8 crux, so the leader could reach the bolt anchors. Great pitch!
Pitch 3: left 50 feet, poor belay protection in right corner crack with loose blocks but a good stance.
Pitch 4: led the right variation leaning hand\fist layback crack to 2 bolt anchor. Fun pitch. Jul 30, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
There is an obvious walk-off.

Do this in four pitches. Scramble up from the base to a ledge about 30 feet up. Belay from here. (1) Climb past the first bolts, through a series of overhangs, and build an anchor whenever convenient. (2) Continue up to the "party ledge" and use the first set of bolts. (3) Traverse 40 feet left, past another pair of bolts, and build an anchor (#3 & #4) in crack on your right. (4) Final pitch stays left of an orange streak of lichen, along an obvious series of flakes, and steps left, then continues upward over obvious and easy though slightly runout rock. Belay from gear anchor at the top. The rappel bolts are 25 feet to your right.

The first rap will take you back to first set of anchors on the party ledge. Be careful on this rap - you have to traverse quite a bit. The next rap takes you down to the first anchors (the ones you skipped earlier). Two 60m ropes barely got me down... in fact, I had to downclimb a little bit. SKETCH! The last rap is simple. Jun 8, 2012
JoshC  
I'm interested in free soloing this route. Can anyone tell me if there is a walk off from the top? Oct 4, 2011
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
Awesome route. We did it in five pitches. The route becomes very inobvious at the end of pitch four (after the "50 foot traverse left"). We went to the obvious looking flake and dihedral system which started to the left of what we thought was our belay ledge, belaying off of a slung boulder to the left of the anchors in the middle of the traverse which was apparently wrong. Pro was tricky and the rock was choss. Stay away from that flake system and you should be all good. Easy to bail from anywhere on the route with two ropes. I would most definitely recommend this climb if you go the right way at the final pitch. Jun 15, 2011
Alan Robertson
Denver, CO
Alan Robertson   Denver, CO
My second couldn't clean a nut (red CAMP #5) on this route a couple weeks ago. If you can get it out, enjoy it. Or if you want to get it back to me, that would be cool, too.

We rapped off the big ledge with lots of bolts. Fun route. Be careful of climbers on sport routes below you though. Jun 15, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
Found some gear here on the third pitch. If it's yours, drop me a line. Aug 29, 2009
Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
Fun moderate to get off the ground. Pitch two crux move is good jamming through the bulge, fixed pin there to clip.

Last pitch left facing dihedral is cool, stay left of the orange lichen however. You can bail from the top of this pitch by climbing down to the right on a ramp and then back up to a large ledge on the right, exposed moves but easy 5.3. Aug 28, 2009