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Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall

Brother Toad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother Lode T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Other Road, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perpetual Doubt S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pirate Mode T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rad Lad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Squid Kid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Change of Season T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trooper Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 275 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Drew Spaulding, Zach Holtzman, 2009
Page Views: 1,474 total · 16/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on May 28, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 - Start just left of the Mother Lode, either up the chimney or on the prow/arete to the left. Gain the corner above and step out to the right clipping a few bolts up to the 2-bolt chained anchor (5.9).

Pitch 2 - Clip one bolt to gain the hand crack above. Climb through the 2nd pitch of the Mother Lode into the clean, finger corner above and continue up the face past 5 bolts to gain the Mother Load belay ledge (5.10c/d).

Pitch 3 - Step up and right and climb the new bolts to the top of the wall (5.10b). FFA on this pitch was Jed Selby-2009

Protection

Gear to 3" and 15 quickdraws are needed for this 3 pitch adventure. A 70m rope makes for a simple descent back down the the same route. 3 rappels brings you to the ground. The descent with a 60m rope is possible if you rappel to The Other Road anchors to the left....

Photos

Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
....there are some longer stretches of crack climbing on the F. Y. Wall!!! Sep 25, 2014
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
Yeah, that was the longest section of crack that I have climbed at Monitor. I drug my younger brother up there with me, he has only been climbing a few times and he loved it. I will absolutely go check out some of the routes on F.Y. Wall as soon as I get back up there. If I wasn't laying hard wood flooring in my house right now, I would go tomorrow. My goal is to climb everything on Monitor in the next year or so. Thanks for making that goal just a little bit harder by putting up even more awesome routes. Sep 25, 2014
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
Glad you got up there, Nate! That 2nd pitch is really the gem...60' of crack climbing on The Monitor is a rarity followed by the beautiful headwall above. "The Other Road" is the route to the left of the "Mother Load" and IMHO is the best route of the 3....
I've also established 5 new 3-pitch routes on the upper left side of the MONITOR that nobody has commented on at all.... The F. Y. Wall is the true, new gem of the MONITOR. Numerous crack systems grace the incredible, heart-shaped plaque...check it out! Sep 23, 2014
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
The first pitch of this was just ok, but the next two pitches are excellent. I climbed Mother Lode earlier this week and had to come back to try this route, and it did not disappoint. The bolted face climbing on the upper part of pitch two was great. Sep 22, 2014
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
The line out right of Pirate Mode is Momentary Lapse of Reason! 2-pitch 5.11a.... Nov 29, 2011
Ryan Edwards  
 
Climbed this, and there was another line of bolts that I could reach out to the right and touch from the upper section of "Pirate Mode". Does anybody know what that line is called or rated? Also, does anyone have beta for the lines in the area marked as "Bird's Nest" in the "Temporary Change of Seasons" topo photo? Jul 3, 2011