New Squid In Town
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson, 2020|
|Page Views:||744 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Lynn S on Jul 27, 2020 · Updates|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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The Eagles said it best... “Everbody’s talking about the New Squid In Town”....
New Squid climbs the obvious strip of rock just right of Squid Kid. It has good rock and fun movement for the entire pitch.
Fun slabbing begins off a grassy ledge and leads to an obvious right to left rising flake, exiting the flake up and right is cruxy. Good cams are available in this section, see the pic for details. After exiting the flake, move right past a small bush and below a whiteish plaque of rock. Climb past 2 bolts on this plaque, pumpy, to a stance. Move right over an arete to finish past 2 additional bolts. You can place a nut prior to moving right over arete if you want.
Start right of Squid Kid and left of pitch one of The Other Road. Finish just below an obvious rust patch of lichen.