Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson, 2020
Page Views: 744 total · 23/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Jul 27, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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The Eagles said it best... “Everbody’s talking about the New Squid In Town”....

New Squid climbs the obvious strip of rock just right of Squid Kid. It has good rock and fun movement for the entire pitch.

Fun slabbing begins off a grassy ledge and leads to an obvious right to left rising flake, exiting the flake up and right is cruxy. Good cams are available in this section, see the pic for details. After exiting the flake, move right past a small bush and below a whiteish plaque of rock. Climb past 2 bolts on this plaque, pumpy, to a stance. Move right over an arete to finish past 2 additional bolts. You can place a nut prior to moving right over arete if you want.


Start right of Squid Kid and left of pitch one of The Other Road. Finish just below an obvious rust patch of lichen.


8 bolts and an assortment of cams from TCUs to a #1 Camalot. See the pic for a rack suggestion. Bring some slings good to reduce drag.