Type: Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches
FA: Josh Gross, Lynn Sanson and Amos Whiting
Page Views: 1,744 total · 37/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Jun 22, 2018
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Don't doubt me, there is some good climbing on this route.

P1: 5.11b. Boulder up to the first bolt, and continue past interesting moves, better than it looks from the ground. A good stance by a bush sets you up for the great finish on small crimps, 70 feet.

P 2: 5.11 b/c. Climb right clip a bolt, then bust left into a steep, slanting, right-facing corner. Pull through roof onto to a beautiful, gently overhanging plaque of stone. Finish pitch with a fun boulder problem to the lip of the wall, 70 feet.

P 2.5. Move belay up and left below pitch 3. Pass a tree and a 2 bolt anchor, then make a short 4th Class move to a upper ledge system. Traverse ledge 30 feet down and left to a 2 bolt anchor below the 3rd pitch.

P 3: 5.12. Climb left off the belay ledge. Encounter a thought provoking slab crux trending left to a left-facing flake system. Pull through a wildly exposed roof, P.D. climbs square on the bolts, making for a fun boulder problem mid-pitch. Bust up and right, climbing amazing varnished jugs on gently overhanging rock, 120 feet.

P 4: 5.11-. Pull moderate boulder problem off belay ledge. It is a good idea to protect the leader with one of the anchor bolts. Follow pro though multiple slab cruxes, spectacular flake system, and a vertical dike. Finish this pitch with the last 2 bolts of "Meltdown", 155 feet.

Location

Start 50 feet uphill from Meltdown, just left of orange lichen streaks.

Protection

Lots of bolts.

Per Ken Duncan: 17 bolts on the last pitch.

Photos