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Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall

Brother Toad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother Lode T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Other Road, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perpetual Doubt S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pirate Mode T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rad Lad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Squid Kid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Change of Season T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trooper Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,652 total, 44/month
Shared By: Edward Jenner on Sep 13, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Squid Kid is directly opposite the trail where it meets the rock. There will most likely be someone on it! This is a very popular route, and it's as good as it looks from the ground. Varied climbing past 10 well-positioned bolts gains a ledge with 2 bolts. There is nothing too strenuous, but it is a lot of fun. You will need 2 ropes to get down!

Eds. You can identify the route, left of the large trees, with a rightward pointing flake at about 6 bolts up. You can continue with Otis 5.11a, 9 bolts for 2nd pitch & going left an 11c for a 3rd pitch.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. ~120 feet.
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Pretty overrated route. Not very sustained, ledgy, and slightly awkward. Certainly nowhere near the best 10- in the state, nor 9+ for that matter. Jun 18, 2017
Frogmen83
  5.9
Frogmen83  
  5.9
Fun route with diversity, but best 5.10a in CO?
Route felt 5.8/5.9 with 1 move you could argue to be 5.10a.
A great route for 5.9 leaders though breaking into the grade. Jul 30, 2013
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.10a
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.10a
Rex is right. Finest sport .10a in Colorado. So many surprises and techniqie moves. Ya just don't expect to find this level of wow in a .10. Jul 22, 2012
Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
Very enjoyable pitch. Aug 28, 2009
Lyn
Boulder, CO
Lyn   Boulder, CO
Great warm up route! A 70 meter rope gets you to ground with 10-15' to spare. Aug 22, 2009
Only did the first pitch which was a blast. Lowered off our own draws with a 70m rope. Jun 30, 2009
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
This was a good climb and solid 10 the way up. We used 1 rope to rap with and it was not a big deal. Make sure you tie the ends of the rope if you only use 1 rope and have no problem down climbing about 10 feet. Jul 9, 2007
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
I would like to somewhat rescind my previous comments. You can't get to the ground with a 60m, but you can get to a ledge that has a short 3rd class scramble off. Sorry for any confusion. Jun 3, 2007
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
I wouldn't lower off a 60m, but I have climbed this route several times, and the first time I rapped with 2 60m and every time since then I have rapped with 1 60m, and it has gotten me way closer than the 2nd bolt. If you're unsure, rap with 2 60m ropes. I think the problem may be that I'm 195lbs and get a lot of stretch. Jul 5, 2006
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Great route. To the poster above me, I think you meant to say a rap with 2 60m ropes gets you down safe. Rapping with 1 60m rope leaves you right around the 2nd bolt on the way down. Jul 3, 2006
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
Love this route, do it everytime I'm in the area. IMHO this one gets all the stars. As mentioned previously, a rap with a 60m gets you back on safe ground. Jun 2, 2006
Rob Dillon  
 
Wow, the best sport .10a in the state. Don't know about that but I do know that I end up doing this route just about every time I go to the Monitor. Mostly 5.8 with a couple thinker moves, well bolted, scenic belay ledge to watch the sun go down over the Pass. My 70m gets me down no problem; with a 60 I rap (don't lower!) and downclimb the bushy ledges up and left. Sep 21, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Long sport climb with fun moves. Slab to undercling to face moves. I rappelled with a 70m rope, but advise two 60m ropes because one 70m rope was barely long enough. Worth doing again. Jun 14, 2004
Finest sport 10a in Colorado, if you do the second pitch 11a you need draws for 10 bolts and 2 anchors (not 7 bolts as listed in the guide. There is also a third pitch at 11c which requires three small stoppers or TCUs. May 6, 2002