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Elevation: 10,191 ft
GPS: 39.0726, -106.4513
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,615 total · 227/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 23, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Once a variety of routes were listed under Monitor Rock. To help with organization, we'll break these up into separate sections of the wall.

As is probably obvious from the name, this is the section of Monitor Rock that is first encountered as you hike up from CO Hwy 82. There are a terrific bunch of routes located quite conveniently for the climber. Probably best known in the area are The Mother Load and Trooper Traverse which may date back to WWII days. Fine additions have filled in the area.

Routes here include (L->R) off the ground:

A. Matchless, 12-, 2p.
B. Meltdown, 11, 5p, 450', bolts.
C. Rad Lad, 11, 1p, 115', bolts.
D. Squid Kid, 10-, 1p, 120', bolts.
above D. Otis, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
E1. The Other Road, 11-, 3p, 300', bolts.
E2. Hemp Seeds Sowed, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts + gear.
F. Brother Toad, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
G. Trooper Traverse, 8, 3p.
H. Pirate Mode, 10, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
I. Mother Lode, 10, 3p, 350', gear.
J. Momentary Lapse of Reason, 11-.
K. Temporary Change of Season, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.

Getting There Suggest change

Off CO Hwy 82, park at the parking area at the west side of the crag. Hike up the well-established trail to the west side of Monitor Rock.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: 3. Trailhead Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Trailhead Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 92
Trooper Traverse
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 241
Squid Kid
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
Mother Lode
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Pirate Mode
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 34
Brother Toad
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Temporary Change of Season
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Otis
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
The Other Road
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 22
Hemp Seeds Sowed
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
New Squid In Town
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 40
Meltdown
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Projectile Dysfunction
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 35
Rad Lad
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Perpetual Doubt
Sport 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
Matchless
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trooper Traverse
 92
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Squid Kid
 241
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mother Lode
 34
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Pirate Mode
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Brother Toad
 34
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Temporary Change of Season
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Otis
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Other Road
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Hemp Seeds Sowed
 22
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
New Squid In Town
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Meltdown
 40
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Projectile Dysfunction
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 4 pitches
Rad Lad
 35
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Perpetual Doubt
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Matchless
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Trailhead Wall »

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