Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall

Brother Toad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother Lode T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Other Road, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perpetual Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirate Mode T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rad Lad S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Squid Kid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Change of Season T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trooper Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Description

Once a variety of routes were listed under Monitor Rock. To help with organization, we'll break these up into separate sections of the wall.

As is probably obvious from the name, this is the section of Monitor Rock that is first encountered as you hike up from CO Hwy 82. There are a terrific bunch of routes located quite conveniently for the climber. Probably best known in the area are The Mother Load and Trooper Traverse which may date back to WWII days. Fine additions have filled in the area.

Routes here include (L->R) off the ground:

A. Matchless, 12-, 2p.
B. Meltdown, 11, 5p, 450', bolts.
C. Rad Lad, 11, 1p, 115', bolts.
D. Squid Kid, 10-, 1p, 120', bolts.
above D. Otis, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
E1. The Other Road, 11-, 3p, 300', bolts.
E2. Hemp Seeds Sowed, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts + gear.
F. Brother Toad, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
G. Trooper Traverse, 8, 3p.
H. Pirate Mode, 10, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
I. Mother Lode, 10, 3p, 350', gear.
J. Momentary Lapse of Reason, 11-.
K. Temporary Change of Season, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.

Getting There

Off CO Hwy 82, park at the parking area at the west side of the crag. Hike up the well-established trail to the west side of Monitor Rock.

13 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: 3. Trailhead Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Trailhead Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 64
Trooper Traverse
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 125
Squid Kid
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Mother Lode
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Pirate Mode
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 22
Brother Toad
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Meltdown
Sport 5 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 20
Rad Lad
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Perpetual Doubt
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trooper Traverse
 64
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Squid Kid
 125
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mother Lode
 27
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Pirate Mode
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Brother Toad
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Meltdown
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 5 pitches
Rad Lad
 20
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Perpetual Doubt
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Trailhead Wall »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Tried the first pitch of Matchless. Pretty stout for 12- as I couldn't even do the moves at the crux. Never could get to the first set of anchors. Nice job, L. Hadfield. Jul 8, 2011
R Sather
COLORADO
R Sather   COLORADO
Regarding the descent if one is doing longer routes like TT and Mother Load: even though there are nice bolts up and down this whole formation, I recommend doing the walk off. If one goes towards the opposite side of the formation once at the top, you will be able to follow different ledges and tiers eventually linking up with a game trail. Continue to follow that down, and it will spit you off around to where the nose and other moderate climbs start. Hope this is helpful! If walking off mother load, one will need to continue up a little ways via a easy corner crack system, and this will set you up basically at the top out of TT. Sep 4, 2014

More About Trailhead Wall

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (13)

All Photos Within Trailhead Wall (39)

Most Popular · Newest · Random