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Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall

Brother Toad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother Lode T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Other Road, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perpetual Doubt S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pirate Mode T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rad Lad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Squid Kid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Change of Season T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trooper Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Description

Once a variety of routes were listed under Monitor Rock. To help with organization, we'll break these up into separate sections of the wall.

As is probably obvious from the name, this is the section of Monitor Rock that is first encountered as you hike up from CO Hwy 82. There are a terrific bunch of routes located quite conveniently for the climber. Probably best known in the area are The Mother Load and Trooper Traverse which may date back to WWII days. Fine additions have filled in the area.

Routes here include (L->R) off the ground:

A. Matchless, 12-, 2p.
B. Meltdown, 11, 5p, 450', bolts.
C. Rad Lad, 11, 1p, 115', bolts.
D. Squid Kid, 10-, 1p, 120', bolts.
above D. Otis, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
E1. The Other Road, 11-, 3p, 300', bolts.
E2. Hemp Seeds Sowed, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts + gear.
F. Brother Toad, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
G. Trooper Traverse, 8, 3p.
H. Pirate Mode, 10, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
I. Mother Lode, 10, 3p, 350', gear.
J. Momentary Lapse of Reason, 11-.
K. Temporary Change of Season, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.

Getting There

Off CO Hwy 82, park at the parking area at the west side of the crag. Hike up the well-established trail to the west side of Monitor Rock.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trailhead Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 66
Trooper Traverse
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 110
Squid Kid
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
Mother Lode
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Pirate Mode
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
Brother Toad
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Meltdown
Sport 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 14
Rad Lad
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trooper Traverse
 66
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Squid Kid
 110
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mother Lode
 28
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Pirate Mode
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Brother Toad
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Meltdown
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 5 pitches
Rad Lad
 14
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Trailhead Wall »

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Photos

Tried the first pitch of Matchless. Pretty stout for 12- as I couldn't even do the moves at the crux. Never could get to the first set of anchors. Nice job, L. Hadfield. Jul 8, 2011
R Sather
COLORADO
R Sather   COLORADO
Regarding the descent if one is doing longer routes like TT and Mother Load: even though there are nice bolts up and down this whole formation, I recommend doing the walk off. If one goes towards the opposite side of the formation once at the top, you will be able to follow different ledges and tiers eventually linking up with a game trail. Continue to follow that down, and it will spit you off around to where the nose and other moderate climbs start. Hope this is helpful! If walking off mother load, one will need to continue up a little ways via a easy corner crack system, and this will set you up basically at the top out of TT. Sep 4, 2014

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