Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Erikson, Dave Erikson, Jimmy G.
Page Views: 330 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 3, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Jimmy G. is a short but good pitch with solid rock and technical moves and jamming. It is perhaps a little harder for people with large hands.

The route rises up a few feet on a face to intersect a finger to hand crack in a corner... that leans left 45 degrees. This route climbs like something 1/2 way between a normal climb and a traverse under a roof. Cruxes come whenever the footholds get scarce.

Find your way up to a very water polished slab, and squeak your way up that for 20' to a small ledge. Another 10' of easier scramble will take you to the base of a large pine, which is at the start of the route.

Crimp a few holds to reach a seam (protection here), and then make a move up and left to get into the obvious diagonal crack that runs up and left for several body lengths. This protects well every few feet on middle-sized Aliens and hand-sized cams. A crux comes just past halfway through where the crack changes sizes at a pod and feet are scarce and then again getting around the corner of the roof.

Once on top, go back to the second tree to belay. This is large and has a few fixed slings.

One can rap from this tree, though it should have a link added (no ring/ling present right now), or continue on Weevil's Walk (recommended, since you are there).

Location

Jimmy G. lies alone on a small section of rock below the South side of the Long John Tower.

It can be used for as an approach pitch to reach Weevil's Walk, another pretty good climb.

The approach is a bit slick and probably not the best for a beginning climber, but this is not a "date climb" anyway.

Per Dave Holliday: an easy way to get to the route is to climb both pitches of Washington Irving. From the cable anchor atop the second pitch, do an easy traverse over to the tree. Another way is to climb both pitches of Chianti or Break on Through, go up and over a ridge, and then scramble down to the tree.

We descended by downclimbing an easy, wide crack from the belay to a large tree with slings. Rappel from that tree down slabs to a good ledge about 20 feet below the start of the route. Scramble back to the top of Washington Irving, and do two rappels to the ground. One might also be able to scramble up slabs from the belay spot, traverse over to the left, and downclimb back to the starting ledge.

Protection

Protection from 0.25" to 2.5" with an option for a larger piece (fist-sized) just prior to topping out.

Per Dave Holliday: the protection is much better than it looks from the base of the route. An anchor can be made at a small tree and backed up with a #4 Camalot and a large stopper (other combinations of gear would probably work as well).

Photos

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