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Routes in Kloof Alcove

Extendogap T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Flyswatter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Half & Half T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jimmy G. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kloof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lug's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Paligap T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Sequential T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Weevil's Walk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Skip Guerin, 1983
Page Views: 10,522 total, 79/month
Shared By: Hank Caylor on Nov 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Not really a one move wonder, buuuttttt. It has a burly set up with one fat reach at mid-height, then stays hard 11 all the way to the top. This a great route for the climber that's got that, "Been there, done that, 12d, kinda attitude". Definitely unique.

If that's not good enough for ya, Chad Greedy has added a VERY sweet direct start to Superfly, tentatively called "Supah Dupah Fly", that kicks the whole thing to 13b or so....

Location

The more reasonable looking line just right of Iron Monkey. Begin up and right on top of some blocks (purple tiny TCU) and traverse in left on to powerful and overhanging terrain (great orange/yellow Aliens). Make an improbable reach for good crystal and move up and left into an obvious and steep layback system (freaky #3 Camalot) that gets you to the anchors.

Protection

This was an early Eldo horrow show done classic Skip style, with Christian Griffith and Chip Ruckgaber for partners. Today's modern cams-Aliens/TCUs have made this a much more reasonably protected outing. It can still, just, keep its R rating though, I think.
Ol Toby
CA
  5.12+
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12+
Excellent route with a unique and bouldery crux move. An old #3.5 Camalot protects the flared placement more securely than a #3. Jul 20, 2013
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
Mar 18, 2010
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Boy oh boy.... Jan 13, 2010
Scott Bennett
  5.12d
Scott Bennett  
  5.12d
Yeah, that #3 looks shady, fortunately there's a pretty good looking green Camalot a few inches below.
Agreed that it shouldn't get an R, but you'd better nail every placement or else things could get dangerous in a hurry.
-Scott Jan 13, 2010
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Shut up Josh, I nixed the R rating. If the SHALLOW #3 Camalot blows, tell me where to send the flowers. Jan 3, 2010
Josh Janes    
 
Pro is definitely more than 5 feet apart but generally pretty good where you need it. I think injury could only be the result of a freak accident on this route for a competent leader. Also, we would start left of the line and traverse in right - following obvious, chalked holds and good climbing before the biz - the way Skip is doing it in the photo. Jan 1, 2010
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12d
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12d
As a wimpy, bolt clipping, sport wanker, I found the gear on Superfly to be thin but very good and the pro was never more than 5 feet apart. The danger rating on this climb is very inflated. In my opinion, this route doesn't even deserve a PG 13 rating. So don't let the R rating keep you from trying this route. It's excellent, and very safe. Nov 24, 2009