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Routes in Kloof Alcove

Extendogap T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Flyswatter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Half & Half T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jimmy G. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kloof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lug's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Paligap T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Sequential T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Weevil's Walk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson, 1971
Page Views: 653 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details


This climb begins with a bit of unprotected face climbing to reach a short but steep, hand and finger crack. The crack is the crux, but be prepared for a bit of spicy climbing getting to it.


Just south of the Kloof Alcove locate a steep face to the northwest at the top of a broad slab. The climb begins at the top of the slab. At the top of the crack pitch, traverse right along the belay ledge and then head up and left to the top of the formation.


Thin hands to finger-sized protection.


Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10- PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10- PG13
Climbing to access the first fixed pin (which is terrible) is 5.8, PG-13. The beginning of the crack is 5.10- then predominantly 5.9 for a bit.

If the splitter crack were the length of a full pitch, there would be a line to wait in to get on this climb but the best quality is for about 20-25'. The second pitch is easily adjoined for 125' total as a single pitch. Take large stoppers and double down on hand-sized gear.

Also - the best approach is via Jimmy G. (5.9+, fingers and hands - strenuous). May 2, 2015