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Routes in Kloof Alcove

Extendogap T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Flyswatter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Half & Half T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jimmy G. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kloof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lug's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Paligap T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Sequential T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Weevil's Walk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: [Dan Hare & Scott Woodruff]
Page Views: 6,911 total, 35/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Kloof is the leftmost route in the eponymous alcove for which it is famous. It follows a very chalky crack line out the left side of the alcove and finishes at a double-bolt anchor (50+ feet).

Start on the chalky incuts under the center of the wall and boulder right until you can roll over onto the ledge. Sink some gear in the crack and charge left on excellent buckets to a powerful crux (the pump clock is ticking!) Move right at the top of the route to reach the bolt anchors.

Repeat as neccessary.

Protection

Bring a set of stoppers and a good array of cams, from small TCUs to hand-sized gear.
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Harder than some 11s for me probably because of the overhanging nature. Jan 22, 2014
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
Curt - if Kloof wants to make you do more trad, then lead Sequential. It'll make you want to give up sport climbing and buy a rack of RPs and sliders! May 31, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is really fun. Makes me want to do more trad.... May 30, 2012
Tommey-James
Boulder,Colorado
  5.11a
Tommey-James   Boulder,Colorado
  5.11a
Really fun pitch. Not quite as long as I would have liked. The first 15 feet has no pro but, it is all positive and if you're going to make it up the rest of the climb, this shouldn't be a problem. Pro is pretty good the whole way. At the crux I found that a 0.4 c4 works low in the crack to the left; however, you have to set this piece blind and the crack isn't perfectly parallel throughout, so I would double this piece up. I think a green c4 or a red TCU would work pretty well in the main/wider section of the crack, but I didn't have one. Jun 27, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I've always done this route going up the crack at the beginning, instead of traversing left through the buckets (I do it like this because I'm a wanker and I like having pro, it doesn't look like there is much traversing left). I think done this way it's quite a bit harder than T2, because you arrive at the crux pre-pumped. Of course, doing it like this is probably contrived....

Save a grey C4, #0.4 or a yellow Alien for the crux. May 29, 2011
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.10+
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.10+
I agree with Greg on this one. T2 is a bit harder. No stopper moves, just a jug haul with one hard move near the top. Fun climb though with cool moves and great gear. Nov 15, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
...I Googled for "Kloof" and found that it's a town in South Africa. Also found this very relevent definition on BrainyDictionary.com: Kloof (n.) A glen; a ravine closed at its upper end. Oct 24, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
What a great climb! I had no idea from the description that it was as long or overhanging as it is. Great gear except for the start, but don't overdo the gear, unless you're really strong, in which case you don't need to overdo the gear. For me it was 3 "pitches": Boulder to the ledge and haul up the gear. Free climb to the traverse. Aid climb to the top. Double ropes are useful, especially if you want to lower from the crux and let someone else try it. The right rope can protect the second to the start of the traverse. With a single rope to gear at the crux, someone TR'ing to there faces a big swing on the lower crux.

There is a wide crack above the ledge to the left of the regular route that looks reasonable and has chalk on it. How hard it this, and do you traverse way right at the top of the crack, or can you continue up to the left end of the traverse on the regular route? Oct 24, 2004
Regarding the direct start: traversing in from the left is the easiest way to gain the ledge, but the direct crack is not that tough (hard 10+). One move of insecurity, but the pro is not so good. I agree with Tony on the rest, difficult onsight as route finding is tough, as well as some difficult gear. But overall, a great route. Apr 22, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Rossiter's book gave the route a 10b/c on the title, but a close inspection of the topo shows an 11b crux! I'd just done Tagger (yes, all pitches) in 40-something degree temps and 50+ MPH winds Sunday AM before heading for Kloof. I regard Tagger as the yardstick for 10c in Eldo. Tagger was easy despite the winds and numb hands. Then I headed for Kloof and ended up taking a hang on gear.

The big issue with the route is the wandering nature of the pitch, which leads to a lot of false starts with the "pump clock ticking" as it was phrased earlier. Don't even try to make this route go direct- just follow the easiest line, which may take a few tries to get. Once the path is KNOWN, then the route might be 11a, but it sure felt harder to on-sight. There is also the issue of the energy required to protect it well.

After the first attempt, with some knowledge of the route, the redpoint will not be so difficult. Apr 22, 2002
This is quite a good pitch. For its grade, it the most continuously steep route I can think of in Eldo. Rossiter used to grade it 10b/c (total sandbag) but upped it to 11a in his latest guide. It's still a tough onsight at 11a. It starts with about 15' of unprotected, overhanging 5.9, the hardest part of which is at the end where a fall would be highly undesirable. The pro at the crux is perfectly safe, but it's a little lower and off to the side of where, ideally, it should be; with double ropes the crux pro would be better.

If this route were put up today in Boulder Canyon, it would be partially, if not entirely bolted, there would be a bolt right where you'd want it at the crux, it would probably be rated 11c (or harder), it would be very popular and it wouldn't be nearly as interesting. Mar 11, 2002