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Routes in Kloof Alcove

Extendogap T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Flyswatter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Half & Half T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jimmy G. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kloof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lug's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Paligap T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Sequential T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Weevil's Walk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt & Dan Hare, 1981
Page Views: 7,911 total · 38/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Locate the start of Kloof and boulder up the jugs to the ledge. Jam and layback straight up the groove to the second chalked-up jug rail.... Place bomber pro and launch off on the crux sequence and the best 3 feet of steep jamming in Eldo.... Weave out left and up to the anchor OR finger jam straight up the crack (better and a little harder). An excellent pitch, possibly the best (sans fixed) pitch of its grade in the canyon!

Protection

Medium to small wired nuts, #1-#2 Friends (double 1+1.5 is nice). Sometimes there is a resident fixed nut (#5 stopper works well) at the crux.
One of the best single pitches in Eldo, if not the Boulder area. Excellent moves, consistently overhanging and great looking. It would be even better if you skipped the fixed nut and did the direct finish. With that combination, the route would warrant about 10 stars for quality. Nov 9, 2004
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12-
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12-
Super fun route that gets steeper the higher you climb. Great gear throughout. This is not your typical Eldo route and is probably a good first 12 for everyone. Feb 4, 2008
Steve Annecone
boulder
 
Steve Annecone   boulder
 
I agree with the above posters, this is an awesome route! It's way overhung from beginning to end with only two rests, and even if you can make all the moves it's so sustained that it's really an endurance crux. Also, the direct finish staying in the crack to the very end is recommended and makes it a little harder than bailing left. Beware of sucker holds if going for the onsight... a few of the highly chalked holds are worthless and not necessarily part of the best sequence. Nov 25, 2008
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12-
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12-
I just think the moves are not too bad for a 12 in Eldo. As far as gear...well it is Eldo. It ain't no weenie roast up there. Safer than a lot of routes though I've been on. Nov 26, 2008
Bob Rotert  
 
I think Rob is saying the moves are not "technically" hard. I would agree, the crux factors on this climb are power and the strength to endure. The FA was done with one fixed nut to protect the crux moves near the top and having to place this piece would make it quite a bit more difficult since the pump factor is mainly what you are fighting on this one.

I think difficulty perspectives are getting skewed here by some folks. This one is strenuous & powerful and you aren't going to be able to do it if you don't have the strength. If your burly, strong and light, this could feel easy,. I would say this one is pretty unique in its overhanging & strenuous character compared to many other Eldo 12's which tend to be more techy and not just brutally strenuous like this one. Jan 21, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12a
I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. If your looking for a potential 12a trad route to onsight in Eldo this one is probably your best bet. Feb 1, 2009
Adam Brink
on the road
 
Adam Brink   on the road
 
Sandbaggers! Onsighting this in good style (placing all of your own gear) would be well proud and stout. Even if you used the fixed gear, it would be a very challenging onsight as it's hard to recover from any mistakes at this angle. How many people have actually onsighted this? Feb 1, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
I onsighted it last Summer, but clipped all the fixed gear there was. I seem to remember that there was a fixed nut about everywhere you would really want one. 2 maybe, and the rest is bomber gear. Feb 1, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12-
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12-
You da man Hank! Right now there are 2 fixed nuts. Only 1 about a year ago when I climbed it. Feb 1, 2009
Adam Brink
on the road
 
Adam Brink   on the road
 
Well done but I'm afraid the onsight doesn't count if your name is Hank Caylor. It's an unfair advantage. Feb 1, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12a
Hey, I didn't say it would be an easy onsight. It's just a lot more climber friendly than say the "Wisdom" or even a route like "Foxtrot". Feb 2, 2009
Bob Rotert  
 
I totally agree! Unfair advantage if your name is "Hank Caylor". This would be a proud 12 send if you're a mortal. May 7, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Steve Lucerelli wrote:
"I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. "
Easier than Apple Strudel? I would have said that would be one of the easiest. May 9, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12-
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12-
Steven means routes on gear not bolts. Big difference. May 10, 2009
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Currently there is no fixed gear. Jan 22, 2014

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