Type: | Trad, 40 ft |
FA: | FTR: John Baldwin, FHP: Josh Wharton |
Page Views: | 1,848 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | josh wharton on Nov 6, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
2018 Rattlesnake Gulch area closures, effective immediately. The closures are to protect nesting golden eagles in the park.
cpw.state.co.us/aboutus/Pag…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
cpw.state.co.us/aboutus/Pag…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Climb up the very soft .12a "Space Neutralizer" to reach the base of the overhanging arete above, or traverse in easily from the left (the start of "Kloof"). Clip the 2 pins hidden back at the base of the chossy dihedral and place a small cam in a horizontal break on the arete (double ropes are useful for making this work without drag). Move slightly down and right to gain bouldery moves that lead up right to a set of fixed wires. One more move past the wires leads to easier terrain and a gear anchor off mid-size cams. Although it looks quite dangerous the fall from the crux (which I tested a few times for good measure) resulted in only a bruised hip, so a ground-up ascent would not be unreasonable. I believe Baldwin applied to have this route bolted but was denied (Rossiter mentions it as the TR line "Extendogap" .12c in his guide) and I assume it has never been lead until now--although in Boulder I could certainly be wrong. Skip Guerin may have done in barefoot in '85? Zach Smith deserves most of the credit for this line as he had the vision to see it as a headpoint and placed the fixed wires just above the crux.
denver
Ok sent... it's probably 12+ but hard and reach. Here is the video if you care: youtube.com/watch?v=vvyYkYu… Mar 17, 2013
Nice Work! Cool to see somebody repeat this route, and a nice look back at the days when I was into the Eldo headpoint game. Looking at your video, it looks like the beta I used way back when, so I don't think anything has broken as the guidebook suggests. I've seen a few people toprope this line...Sonnie, Segal, etc...but to my knowledge, I don't know of anybody else that's led it. Of course in the Boulder area this is always a very sketchy assumption! Also Segal's route Smart Went Crazy is basically a harder version of this route, climbing the rail that leads right. Check out "Stupid Fly" if you haven't already. Super good, with two boulder problems instead of just one! Congrats again! Apr 11, 2013
denver