Type: TR, Mixed, Ice, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 656 total · 12/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Mar 13, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This is a grungy mixed route only worth doing if everything else in the canyon is mobbed.

There are three possible starts: 1) In a short low angle L-facing corner with a verglas blob at the base 2) On the arete just right of the corner and 3) on the face to the right of the arete. All of the starts are in the M2-M4 range. I used start number 1 on the lead.

After the initial 10-15' mixed crux, climb the line of least resistance up and slightly right past frozen moss/dirt/tree roots. Step back left onto a R-facing flake that contains excellent edges and jugs revealed in the moss. Edge and lieback up the flake and past more frozen earth to a rest at a fat tree. Another short mixed crux up and right gains the ice(super thin at first). After an initial buldge the ice gets fat. Climb straight up 15' of almost vertical ice past dead blowdown crux to the top.

One of my partners followed the route and the other one didn't. Not sure if it was worth the effort but MAAAAYBE if it saw a bunch of traffic it would be alright to pass the time if parties are on Haggis. I didn't see signs of any traffic but I suppose it could have been done years ago. The crux for me was fighting through all the dead tree branches frozen into the ice pillar at the top.

Location

Walk left from the base of Haggis and Cold Toast. The route starts 5-10' to the Right of the Left toe of that section of cliff. Around the corner is an overhanging wall. If you walk down climbers L from the top of Haggis you will see this area. From the top of the route, walk up and then L to get back to the base.

Protection

A handful of rock pieces of all sizes, 3-4 screws. No fixed anchor on top at this time.

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