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Routes in Chapel Pond Canyon

Type: Mixed, Ice, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,551 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

One of the testpieces of Chapel Pond; steep, sustained, and rare.

In the center of the face, climb an ice hose to a shallow cave 30' up. There's good rock gear here, and in the horizontals left of the cave. Traverse left 6' (or more depending on where the ice forms that year), then go straight up to the top.

Rappel from trees at the top.

The start is shared with several routes: Bubba (which goes straight up from the cave) and Buford (which traverses right from the cave, then goes up).

Location

The route is located on the sheer wall left of Hot Shot. Several routes share a common start -- the ice hose that leads to a shallow cave 30' up.

Protection

Rock gear to 1" at the cave and traverse; otherwise ice screws (stubbies).

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
Regarding the toprope comment above: this route (and the others on this wall) rarely forms, and when it does, the ice is fragile. I recommend against toproping it unless you can really treat it delicately. Jan 3, 2017
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
 
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
 
You can setup a top rope with a 70m on the Ice Storm wall by climbing up Hot Shot, up the little gully and going climber's left where you'll need to go back down a couple ledges (be careful!).
There's a bunch of cord all over the place, please be aware of what you use (found one where the loose ends were buried in the snow) and install rings /quicklinks if you leave something up there. Jan 25, 2016