Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chapel Pond Canyon

Buford WI5 M6 PG13
Geek, The S M6
Haggis and Cold Toast WI3+
Hot Shot WI4
Ice Slot WI4-
Ice Storm WI5+ M5 PG13
Lions on the Beach WI4-
Midnight Cruiser WI3+
Positive Reinforcement WI3-4
Post Purchase Dissonance TR WI3+ M2-3 PG13
Quinn the Eskimo WI2-3
Rule of the Bone WI3+
Turbo TR M6+
Whales in the Jungle WI3
Type: Ice, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,784 total, 21/month
Shared By: Sarah Crosier on Dec 25, 2010 with updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Get your sphincter ready, you're probably soloing. You'll be cursing after bashing your pics in the slab and wishing for a pin to protrude for the ice.
The whole bottom section is generally just above verglas and as the angle eases, the ice begins to thicken up.

Protection: Bring a couple stubbies and short screws for higher up.

Descent: Belay/rappel off trees on the top of the slab.

Location

Just left of Lions on the Beach between a couple cedar bushes.

Photos

Shane Kenyon
  WI3-
Shane Kenyon  
  WI3-
Agree with Mike, take the 70 because even if you don't use the Lion's anchor, the good trees directly above this route are even further up. Feb 7, 2017
Look for this to fatten up (relatively) after one of those freak February rainstorms.

Also, if you go to the sling anchor at the top of the ice, it's about 110 feet; a 60m rope probably will not suffice. Use a 70 and knot the ends or walk over to the Lions anchor(s). Mar 2, 2016
Bill Kirby
Baltimore Maryland
Bill Kirby   Baltimore Maryland
It's the thin slab of ice 20 feet to left of Lion's on the Beach.

What's cool about it? Whales is as tall as Lions but takes no gear.

Now you know where.. Time to get after it. Make sure hit Tromping in the Tulips afterwards. That's a 3+ too. The route is 75 feet to left of Whales. It starts with traversing climber's right up a ledge then across a tree keep right up to thin ice and frozen moss to the top. Rap down.. There's an anchor to the left. I'm pretty sure Ian Osteyee's FA hasn't seen a second. Mar 23, 2013