Type: Ice, 60 ft (18 m), Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,491 total · 30/month
Shared By: Dharma Bum on Jul 27, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Short but steep, this is a very popular climb in the busy Chapel Pond Canyon. Plan on arriving early since most parties lead the route and then set up a TR to do laps. A Single rope is all you need here. It is possible to set up a TR without leading the route by heading up to the right of the adjacent "Ice Slot" and looking for an old cable to hang on to. Finding the top of the climb is not easy however and requires a short downclimb or rap of an icy gully to reach the top of the route.

Location

Chapel Pond Canyon is located at the North End of Chapel Pond. Access is by walking across the frozen pond towards the narrow end from the pull out on Rt 73. There are several other pull outs farther north on the downhill that avoid walking on the pond from which one can follow the tracks into the canyon. These are normally plowed in the winter. An unplowed lot provides the most direct access but it is difficult to find (located right where the guard rail ends after passing the Chapel Pond pull out. Hot Shot is on the left side of the second ice wall as you head down the canyon The first being "Lions on the Beach". It is next to a right facing corner after a short scramble up a snowy ramp. The canyon trail is normally pretty beat out so unless you are going in right after a nor'easter you probably won't need snowshoes.

Protection

Rap anchor at the top. There are 2 opportunities to rest on small ledges on the way up so the steep climbing only lasts 15-20 feet at a time.

Photos