Type: Ice, 60 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,851 total · 29/month
Shared By: Dharma Bum on Jul 27, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

Short but steep, this is a very popular climb in the busy Chapel Pond Canyon. Plan on arriving early since most parties lead the route and then set up a TR to do laps. A Single rope is all you need here. It is possible to set up a TR without leading the route by heading up to the right of the adjacent "Ice Slot" and looking for an old cable to hang on to. Finding the top of the climb is not easy however and requires a short downclimb or rap of an icy gully to reach the top of the route.

Location

Chapel Pond Canyon is located at the North End of Chapel Pond. Access is by walking across the frozen pond towards the narrow end from the pull out on Rt 73. There are several other pull outs farther north on the downhill that avoid walking on the pond from which one can follow the tracks into the canyon. These are normally plowed in the winter. An unplowed lot provides the most direct access but it is difficult to find (located right where the guard rail ends after passing the Chapel Pond pull out. Hot Shot is on the left side of the second ice wall as you head down the canyon The first being "Lions on the Beach". It is next to a right facing corner after a short scramble up a snowy ramp. The canyon trail is normally pretty beat out so unless you are going in right after a nor'easter you probably won't need snowshoes.

Protection

Rap anchor at the top. There are 2 opportunities to rest on small ledges on the way up so the steep climbing only lasts 15-20 feet at a time.

Photos

Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  WI3+
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  WI3+
A fine line up a highly traffic-ed chunk of ice. Feb 13, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
WI4-
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
WI4-
This is a superb line - the best in the CP area (with the exception of Power Play) IMO Mar 4, 2012
Bill Kirby
San Francisco CA
Bill Kirby   San Francisco CA
Hot Shot is a solid 4. There are plenty of rests when picked out but a 4 by definition. I don't see many 3+ leaders leading this one.

To the dumbasses who stole the biners at the rap/TR anchor on 3/19/13.. Put them Back! It's not trad booty! Mar 23, 2013
Nolan Huther
Potsdam, NY --> Burlington, VT
  WI4
Nolan Huther   Potsdam, NY --> Burlington, VT
  WI4
The tree with the fixed anchor is maybe 10 feet back from the top of the flow. I clipped it and lowered off for my follower to clean, and found we had about 2 feet to spare on a 60m rope. Rope lengths can vary by a few feet from their claimed length, so your path up this flow and how far you extend your anchor if you want to TR this may be important if you're not using a 70. Unsure how rappelling this with a 60 would go, as we were using doubles, but it would probably be fine, just knot those ends Jan 9, 2019