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Routes in Chapel Pond Canyon

Type: Ice, 60 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,120 total, 28/month
Shared By: Dharma Bum on Jul 27, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Short but steep, this is a very popular climb in the busy Chapel Pond Canyon. Plan on arriving early since most parties lead the route and then set up a TR to do laps. A Single rope is all you need here. It is possible to set up a TR without leading the route by heading up to the right of the adjacent "Ice Slot" and looking for an old cable to hang on to. Finding the top of the climb is not easy however and requires a short downclimb or rap of an icy gully to reach the top of the route.

Location

Chapel Pond Canyon is located at the North End of Chapel Pond. Access is by walking across the frozen pond towards the narrow end from the pull out on Rt 73. There are several other pull outs farther north on the downhill that avoid walking on the pond from which one can follow the tracks into the canyon. These are normally plowed in the winter. An unplowed lot provides the most direct access but it is difficult to find (located right where the guard rail ends after passing the Chapel Pond pull out. Hot Shot is on the left side of the second ice wall as you head down the canyon The first being "Lions on the Beach". It is next to a right facing corner after a short scramble up a snowy ramp. The canyon trail is normally pretty beat out so unless you are going in right after a nor'easter you probably won't need snowshoes.

Protection

Rap anchor at the top. There are 2 opportunities to rest on small ledges on the way up so the steep climbing only lasts 15-20 feet at a time.
Bill Kirby
Baltimore Maryland
Bill Kirby   Baltimore Maryland
Hot Shot is a solid 4. There are plenty of rests when picked out but a 4 by definition. I don't see many 3+ leaders leading this one.

To the dumbasses who stole the biners at the rap/TR anchor on 3/19/13.. Put them Back! It's not trad booty! Mar 23, 2013
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
WI4-
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
WI4-
This is a superb line - the best in the CP area (with the exception of Power Play) IMO Mar 4, 2012
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  WI4
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  WI4
Although it is downgraded to NEI 4- in the latest edition of Don Mellor's guidebook, Hot Shot is considered by many to be a classic grade 4 climb in the Canyon. Usually, it will be significantly more difficult and committing than Crystal Ice Tower or Lions, which are more representative of the NEI 4-. Feb 7, 2012
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  WI3+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  WI3+
A fine line up a highly traffic-ed chunk of ice. Feb 13, 2011