Type: Ice, 180 ft
FA: Mar 1993, Bill Widrig, Tad Welch
Page Views: 6,080 total · 42/month
Shared By: Dharma Bum on Sep 26, 2008 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

The route climbs a narrow chimney that starts off easy, ascends a steep and tight section of about 30 ft (crux) and eases off for the top out. The crux can be awkward and a bit overhanging, especially on the right side where there is a small ledge that provides a spot to rest, but makes the finish of the crux more difficult. The left side is more steep and direct as long as there is enough ice to climb it.

Location

The previously described approach from the Ausable Club Trailhead parking lot (across Rt 73 from Roaring Brook Falls) is illegal, as it crosses AMR property and is patrolled. Use one of these options:

(a) Hike down from Chapel Pond; very long, but allows you to attempt other climbs in the canyon.

(b) Park at Roaring Brook Falls. Walk up Route 73 (towards Chapel Pond) to the end of the guard rail on the south side of the road. Jump the guard rail at its very end and walk directly perpendicular from the guardrail over the bump of hill in front of you.  This brings you to the swamp.  The swamp is AMR property, so take a hard left when you hit the swamp and follow its edge all the way to the end.  Do NOT go up the canyon when you get to the end of the swamp.  Instead, look to the south side wall of the canyon at this point....at the steep incline.  You should barely be able to see the chimney and/or buttress it resides inside.  This is a very short walk altogether.  See the Joe Heinz's pictures posted in this climb's photo section......one shows the view from the swamp up at the climb's base (with arrows pointing at the climb).....the other shows the view from the base of the climb down at the swamp's end (for perspective).  

Protection

You need double ropes to rap down in one shot. Otherwise some downclimbing will be required below the crux to reach a pin on the right side of the chimney to continue the rap.

Photos