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Routes in Chapel Pond Canyon

Type: Ice, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,961 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Feb 13, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Short, blue bulge in the beginning, then a pleasant stemming corner to an optional belay ledge (used to set up a TR on "Your Mother"--WI 5), then choose which exit you want to tackle---A short, but vertical pillar, or a exit right through a short bulge.

Location

Left-facing flow 50 feet to the right of Hot Shot. Choose your exit...either left up a vertical pillar or escape right.

Protection

Screws, draws, screamers.

Photos

Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
  WI4-
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
  WI4-
I found nothing pleasant about stemming the corner on this thing. My crampons were scraping the verglass on the right hand side and the ice was thin on the left - topping out the stem corner was ugly. Then again, I am not a graceful ice climber in the least. Sep 18, 2011
Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
 
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
 
When the middle cave-like pillar is broken or just unformed, this can feel pretty tricky! I followed it and it was very fun. I enjoyed stemming on very hollow delicate pillar on the left and pulling some funky moves to get out from behind the broken curtain.

quite fun Feb 3, 2012
Bill Kirby
Baltimore Maryland
Bill Kirby   Baltimore Maryland
Ice Slot was huge this year! Very straight forward.

Your Mama was the fattest it's ever been too. Blue Lines rates Your Mama as a 4+... What? Mar 23, 2013
When the central pillar isn't big enough, you can go up and left a bit then make a pin-protected high step back right. This turned out to be a critical move for me a year ago after a cold spell (-18 F) stressed the aforementioned pillar. To me, it just looked sketchy and I wanted nothing to do with it. Sure enough, a climber shortly afterwards committed to it, with rather disastrous results (pillar shattered, broken arm). Jan 14, 2014
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
  WI4-
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
  WI4-
Mike your story doesn't surprise me at all. That central pillar always looks/feels sketchy to me and I can only imagine what -18 degree temps would do to it. Mar 6, 2014

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