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Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mike Caldwell and Eric Craig (1974)
Page Views: 290 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 28, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Face to crack climb, located just a short ways downhill and to the left of the popular Jamcrack area. Better protected than Raisin, but not nearly as high quality. Sort of dirty and would improve a bit with more traffic, so if it's a clusterfuck on the routes to the right, consider hopping on this one.

The climb begins on the highly featured face to the left of a small (and very dirty) corner. The first bolt was added after the first ascent and is still a 1/4"er (the ASCA doesn't replace retro bolts). The rest of the bolts are bomber.

The climbing is only 5.8 or so getting to the second bolt. Then trend to the left past a couple more bolts and then back right after the 4th bolt to gain a crack system. The start of the crack is steeper and this is the crux. Your pro here unfortunately takes up what would be a useful jam. Then after a few feet the angle lessens and it's easy climbing to the anchor.

Can set up a toprope with a 70m, not sure if a 60m makes it.

Protection

3 or 4 bolts (depending on if the retrobolt gets chopped), light rack to 2" (I only used a #1 and #2 Camalots), 2 bolt anchor/rap.

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