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Routes in Industrial Wall

Assembly Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blast Furnace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Coal as Ice T WI3 M2-3
Conveyor Belt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hidden Agenda S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoffa Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ignominious Demise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loading Dock S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maid In America S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Union Dues S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wage Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
White Collar Redneck S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: T. Calderboner
Page Views: 707 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Not a bad climb. It kind of wonders a bit and is a little dirty at the bottom. Climb up and pull a bulge, traverse left and pass the overhang on the left, head back right and pass 2 more bolts with homemade hangers to find chains at the top of an open book feature. Looks like some bolts may have been added recently to complete an older line.

Location

This is the first route at the wall, just to the left of Maid in America.

Protection

7-8 bolts, chains.

Photos

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Rob Stinogle
  5.8
Rob Stinogle  
  5.8
Just hit this guy this weekend, and the "homemade" bolts and chains are still in great shape. Wasn't very amazing after the bulge, but the first 20 feet and pulling the bulge crux are worth it. Jul 11, 2016
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
^^^Those look like old recycled hangers from rebolting efforts on older routes, methinks. Leeper hanger and an old knifeblade piton from the looks of it. Kinda wish those wouldn't make a re-appearance on newer routes. So...not really "homemade" but "re-purposed". Oct 1, 2015
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
This is now the first route when you come to the wall. A little wandery, a little dirty, and some footholds may come off, but still fun. In some places, it isn't clear where the next bolt is, but it quickly becomes clear if you keep climbing.

One of the anchors and two bolts are indeed homemade. They're in easy terrain and didn't bother me at all. If you find them troubling, they can be backed up by small cams to a .75 camalot (including the anchor, if you're toproping), but they really just add to the route.




Sep 29, 2015