Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: 1994, Jim Reynolds, Mark Hadnot, Jeff Cobabe
Page Views: 3,777 total · 20/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Aug 31, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

69 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Really quite entertaining, and perfect for the hot summer days when this is in the shade for a good portion of the day. Moderate difficulty mixed with decent exposure and odd moves make for a worthwhile outing. The route is about dead-center on Industrial Wall, and is the up-canyon route of the two on either side of the roofs and blocks. The start is directly below the first roof on the granite blocks. Move up into the broken corner that makes up the climb. Ascend the crack and face to the first roof. Moving out right of this roof is one of the more entertaining moves on the climb. Continue up through the next block and roof to the exit move out over a spike of granite. Rap the route.


Five bolts, Five quickdraws... Funny how that works out. Belay is bolted with chains.


Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
This is extremely hard for 5.9 in my opinion. This thing and Half a Finger are the only 2 5.9s in LCC that have shut me down. Aug 21, 2004
the 10a/b next to it sharing the same anchors has a smashed second bolt from recnt rockfall. hoffa finger has serious dirt all over the start from the rockfall also. Oct 24, 2005
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
There is a trick to pulling the crux roof. Without knowing the trick, pulling the roof requires a lot of balance and strength (probably a 5.10b move); otherwise, the route is a stout 5.9+. Jul 21, 2006
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
There is definitely an easy way to climb the roof. However, between myself and 2 others that I watched climb it, there were 3 different styles demonstrated of climbing the roof. A great route with lots of fun moves. Jul 22, 2006
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Definitely many ways to go through that roof, some of them feeling harder than 5.9... Step out right to reach a crimp and forget about the crack altogether and it feels like a 9. Lieback on this crack with smeared feet and you'll have to do battle !
I felt like the crux was before the roof though, some really slippery feet. Sep 8, 2006
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
what a classic sleeper route on the industrial wall!! Slabby delicate start to fist jamming roof pulling to heel hooking awesomeness! Loved it. In the shade and 10 degrees cooler. Jul 12, 2008
JeffM   SLC
Super fun route with a great name- the ”finger” looks a lot like the LCC classic Half a Finger. I’d say it’s easier than half a finger: 5.9 (5.9+ max). Work your feet up at the roof then lay back for a couple of moves (on some big, suspect blocks). The route is fully bolted even though you could place gear in quite a few spots. The route is clean- no dirt. Aug 4, 2008
Jordon Schaefer  
Maybe I'm remembering wrong but I thought it had 6 bolts... I have to say that this is by far the best 5.9 I have climbed. Pulling the roof is great and the move after the next bolt was just plain fun. I could see the roof being difficult if you didn't decypher it. If you figure out your moves right I'd say this is an easy 5.9, basically a hike after the 5th bolt. It's a solid warm up and a must do for anyone climbing the industrial wall. Sep 25, 2011
Did this route last week, that block at bolt 4 is realllllyy loose. Definitely harder than a 5.9 without being able to touch that. Aug 10, 2018
Nate Brown
Salt Lake City, UT
Nate Brown   Salt Lake City, UT
Counted 6 bolts. Hand jam to pull up and over the roof worked for the crux. Sep 12, 2018