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Routes in Industrial Wall

Assembly Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blast Furnace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Coal as Ice T WI3 M2-3
Conveyor Belt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hidden Agenda S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoffa Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ignominious Demise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loading Dock S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maid In America S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Union Dues S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wage Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
White Collar Redneck S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 180 ft
FA: Brian Cabe and Matt Scullion 9 January 2010
Page Views: 1,088 total, 11/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 11, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A nice long pitch (180 to 200 feet, depending on where you belay) of fairly low angle ice, with several steeper bulges and some rock slabs with snow/thin ice to keep things interesting.

Climb the low angle approach ice (around 60 feet of lower angle WI 3) taking care as there might be a fair amount of water flow and funky ice layering. Set up 50-100 feet above this approach pitch at a nice, flat belay spot. Climb up, hopefully more ice than snow and rock. After the last significant bulge of ice, a belay from a cluster of trees on the climber's right works for both the belay and rappel (we left a black sling and rapide for a rappel anchor).

Thick and thin, some rock work, short steps to thick enough ice, trees and short, medium and long screws for pro. More "busy" and much longer than it looks from below.

Worthy diversion from the standard classics in the canyon. Speakin' of classics...

I've seen it before
It happens all the time
You're closing the door
You leave the world behind
You're digging for gold
Yet throwing away
A fortune in feelings
But someday you'll pay

You're as cold as ice, cold as ice, I know

Location

Located in Coalpit Gulch, just uphill and across the gully from the Industrial Wall.

Approach as per the Pentapitch area and/or Industrial Wall. Hike up Coalpit Gulch (making darn sure the avy hazard is low).

Climb the 60 foot low angle approach ice or hike up to the climber's left. Just above this approach pitch, the route starts on the west side of the gully (east facing).

Ice flow is located about 100 feet to the right of the steeper waterfall (ski rappel) past the Industrial Wall.

Rappel from tree(s).

If formed, this route "should" be partly visible from the LCC main road. Pull out into the driveway on the north side of the road to put the binoculars on it.

Protection

Take a variety of screws, from stubbies to 17cm. Plenty of slings for trees on the sides of the route. Rock gear might also be useful (placed a handy .5 camalot in a slot) and a small selection of pins might work too.
A great find, gentlemen--and here I was, about to commit seppuku due to the abyssmal snow conditions... Hattori Jan 15, 2010
paintrain  
 


I'll fess up. This is what I was thinking with the name. But either way.

Fun route. Busier than expected. It feels considerably steeper than it looks (as with most ice). Jan 11, 2010