Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 180 ft (55 m)|
|FA:||Brian Cabe and Matt Scullion 9 January 2010|
|Page Views:||1,508 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Jan 11, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Climb the low angle approach ice (around 60 feet of lower angle WI 3) taking care as there might be a fair amount of water flow and funky ice layering. Set up 50-100 feet above this approach pitch at a nice, flat belay spot. Climb up, hopefully more ice than snow and rock. After the last significant bulge of ice, a belay from a cluster of trees on the climber's right works for both the belay and rappel (we left a black sling and rapide for a rappel anchor).
Thick and thin, some rock work, short steps to thick enough ice, trees and short, medium and long screws for pro. More "busy" and much longer than it looks from below.
Worthy diversion from the standard classics in the canyon. Speakin' of classics...
I've seen it before
It happens all the time
You're closing the door
You leave the world behind
You're digging for gold
Yet throwing away
A fortune in feelings
But someday you'll pay
You're as cold as ice, cold as ice, I know
Approach as per the Pentapitch area and/or Industrial Wall. Hike up Coalpit Gulch (making darn sure the avy hazard is low).
Climb the 60 foot low angle approach ice or hike up to the climber's left. Just above this approach pitch, the route starts on the west side of the gully (east facing).
Ice flow is located about 100 feet to the right of the steeper waterfall (ski rappel) past the Industrial Wall.
Rappel from tree(s).
If formed, this route "should" be partly visible from the LCC main road. Pull out into the driveway on the north side of the road to put the binoculars on it.