Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jim Reynolds, Shane Dunleavy 1994
Page Views: 915 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 26, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Without question the best route on the wall. This route has so many different techniques packed into it's one pitch that it amazes me, and it is consistently 5.10 almost the entire length. Start with a mantle, followed by a slab move or two, up to an undercling. Traverse left on this undercling, transtition into a layback, and work the layback for a few moves. Mount the roof with a throw, make some steep face moves to another undercling. Traverse right delicately with reaches and underclings all the while slabbing it out with your feet. Mount another roof and finish with an exciting and exposed slab move to die for. WOW!

Location

5th route from the left. Just past the easy groove right of Hidden Agenda.

Protection

The book shows 8 bolts, I clipped 10. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

JeffM
SLC
  5.10b
JeffM   SLC
  5.10b
I think this is the best single pitch bolted route in LCC. Lots of variety and fun moves. And, like all the climbs on this wall, it's well bolted. 5.10b, 4 stars. Aug 4, 2008
I do remember this being thought provoking. But I don't remember it being as terrific as everyone talks about. Maybe it's just me. I know I thought: "That was cool" but I didn't ever think "WOW!:" Nov 27, 2008
Alec LaLonde
  5.10b
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10b
I would probably agree with Jeff on this one. Steep, sustained, great rock, really well bolted. Kind of wanders, but it goes where the holds are, and stays 5.10 most of the way. Great route!

Don't cheat yourself at the top, either. Do the slab moves. They're awesome. Going right sucks. Sep 28, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
I recommend slinging out the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag. Aug 4, 2014
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Best route on the wall! The run to the third bolt was a bit scary, but as you would expect, the climbing gets easier the closer you get to that bolt. After the third bolt you get some really fun pulls, a puzzling traverse, and an optional slab finish. Union Dues has a slightly different character than the rest of the routes at industrial (aside from a similar slabby start). Under cling/ layback to glory, and do the slab finish, it is not as hard as it looks! Aug 7, 2015
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
Don't be deterred by what looks like a serious fall from the third bolt. The clipping stance is secure and easily achieved, and the fall moving into position would be fine. Just go for it. I found it to be a very well bolted climb. Sep 29, 2015