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Routes in Industrial Wall

Assembly Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blast Furnace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Coal as Ice T WI3 M2-3
Conveyor Belt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hidden Agenda S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoffa Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ignominious Demise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loading Dock S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maid In America S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Union Dues S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wage Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
White Collar Redneck S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Reynolds, Shakib
Page Views: 1,104 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 10, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Past most of the climbs, are 2 bolted routes next to a "waterfall". This is the left-most line. It only climbs well in low runoff. Avoid spring, early summer, and windy south winds, as this will coat the cliff. A tricky start up over 2 mini-roofs. This is followed by easier but not by much face climbing, angling right at the end.

Protection

2 bolts up top for the anchors, and 4 draws, **maybe 5 draws. Also bring a runner, as it may be needed.

Photos

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Rob Stinogle  
 
We climbed this twice today to figure out the first move. Went left then clipped the second bolt low, or did the leap of faith. Both were a bit sketch. Jun 15, 2015
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
 
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
 
This must have cleaned up quite a bit since the comments above because it was not dirty and had good moves. I thought it was just as good as Hoffa finger. Pulling through the roof is the crux and very different than its brother next door. Felt like 5.9+ to 10- Jun 30, 2013
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.10a
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.10a
I agree with Andrew that first move is not 5.9. Or maybe it is if you are 6'7" like my partner who was able to do it the right way. I also went left and did the leap of faith. The next move are good up until the runout traverse. The runout isn't bad don't let it scare you. Sep 27, 2005
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
  5.9
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
  5.9
Trickey start, but if you take your time and figure out the sequence it can be done smooth and not any harder than 5.9. But it takes a little to figure it out. May 20, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a
The move through the roofs at the beginning definitely didn't feel like 9+. The only way through I could figure out was climbing on the left and then making a desperate leap to the small ledge just above and right of the first bolt. The climbing eases considerably after the third bolt - its a bit runout but maybe 5.2

Dirty, weird, and discontinuous climb. Worst route at the Industrial Wall by far. Aug 21, 2004